In this article you will find detailed information on how to build a pergola in the garden with explanatory photographs and do it yourself.
Pergola is Italian and means colonnade or solarium. Already in antiquity, pergolas were found, often in marble or other precious materials. In the modern garden plot, the pergola of pressure-impregnated wood is usually built and the wood structure is primarily intended to support clinging and other plants.
A pergola can look in several ways and also have more than one function. It is also not uncommon that the woodwork is completely free from greenery, even if you miss a lot of the effect with this construction.
Combined the pergola with a windscreen, you can create a slim floor. This can be likened to the old-fashioned syrenbersån a cozy creep in the middle of the garden. The Pergolan can also frame the garden walk, which was common during the Renaissance. In a not too small garden, such a leafy geranium can give a nice character to the plum.
However, the most common thing is to couple the pergola with the body and thus create a space atmosphere on the balcony. Since the balcony is usually placed sunny, many of the plants that are suitable in a pergola are very good here. Wine can be cultivated in zones III in good condition if the plants get a lot of sunshine and are not subjected to excessive winds. Bokharabinda and hops are other more fast growing clusters that are good at a pergola. The advantage of hops is that it can be cultivated throughout the country.
Because the wood structure is permanent you should choose pressure-impregnated wood throughout. This is important, not least because maintenance can not be done as regularly as otherwise needed. Cliffs, cliffs and wings should as a rule not be cut every two years.
The size of the wood can be varied slightly after taste and taste, but the posts should still be 100 × 100 millimeters. If you intend to eventually construct the design with a glass or plastic ceiling, it is important that you include the importance of this and a possible snow throw in the calculation. If you live in a part of the country that gets a lot of snow most winters, you can not use for bare breeches, either beams or crossbars, that is, the transverse boards.
For the construction to last for many years, it's not just important to use timber of the right quality and dimension. It is equally important that all screws and nails are stainless or hot-dip galvanized. You should remember that the metal will be exposed to constant moisture, which otherwise quickly breaks down the metal.
Pergolas as well as other outdoor constructions must be firm and well-grounded in the ground. You should therefore dig down to frost-free depth. This varies in part depending on the country's end, but is at least 80 100 centimeters below the ground. Whether you're going to throw yourself or put down finished boards with pole shoes, you should bottom the holes with drainage gravel. This helps prevent tampering. If you are going to cast directly into the ground, you can either pour the concrete directly into the holes or cast in cardboard or concrete pipes.
Before the concrete is cured, post shoe should be put down in the mass. Check with water passes that the iron is completely out of balance. Make any corrections before the concrete solidifies completely. Sometimes it is easier and faster to buy ready-made terminals for the posts. Just make sure that the concrete clumps stand firmly in the ground and that the earth is well packed. Keep in mind that it is the posts that carry the rest of the structure and plant material.
Studs (1) Marking nuts (2) Screwdrivers (3) Water pass (4) Drill (5) Drill steel in appropriate dimension (6) Hammers Fixed key or wrench (8) Angle hook, possibly (9) Double zipper (10) Tumstock (11) Pen (12) Back strap saw blade (13) Stickspade (14) Gearbox, optional Steps.
Pressure impregnated wood, Ankarspik, Through bolts, Slippers, possibly.
You do not usually need building permits for this type of construction. This assuming that the pergola will not be less than 3 m from the land boundary. The height also has some significance. If you are unsure whether permission is required or not, you should always contact the building board in the municipality before you start building. If there is a risk that the pergola will shade the plot next to it, you should contact the neighbors and tell your plans.
1. Measure and mark for all posts using strings and sticks. Tighten the cord well for correct measurement.
2. Dig the holes, possibly. to frost-free deep, and bottom with drainage gravel. Fill with concrete or plinths and put down post shoe.
3. Measure and cut the posts. Here it is important that they are as tall / tall and that you take the bracket into account.
4. Check all the bars for the transverse cross-section. You measure and mark the easiest with double zipper.
5. The clocks, which will have exactly the same dimensions as the rule, looked with a fine-looking saw. Fine-tune with release paper.
6. When the hatch is made, put the posts in place in the post boots. Here you may need some help.
7. Use a screw force and tighten the post into its bracket. Put the force between the boreholes and work smoothly.
8. Check with the water pass that the post stands straight. Make adjustments. Tighten the post in exact position.
9. Pre-drill the holes to the bolts with suitable drill steel. Drill from both directions so that the holes are continuous.
10. Insert bushes through the bore holes. You may need to tap the hammer to get it in place.
11. Use wrench or fixed key and tighten the screws and nuts. Continue with another key.
12. Attach all the posts in the same way. The working moment is greatly facilitated if you have a helper.
1. Measure carefully and mark saw lines for the work to the beams. Use the angle handle and pen.
2. If the beams are to be attached to a center pole, you are at a 45 ° angle. When joining the corner, cut at 90 ° angle.
3. Put the beams in the grooves on the post. The cap surfaces should go along the post. Tighten with a force of force.
4. Nail all the beams with hot-dip galvanized nails. Skråspika where two beams meet in the middle of a post.
5. Measure where the beams cross the crossbar of the longitudinal boards. Make sure the distances are equal.
6. Check all markings with water passes so that this longitudinal regulations are correctly loaded.
7. Cut the work in the correct lengths and over the markings from the beams to the crossbar. Measure very carefully.
8. Spike fixed angle iron in all markings on the crossbar. Use hot galvanized anchor pin and fittings.
9. Add the longitudinal rule and nail the angles in the markings on the beams.
10. For further charters in the construction, then peel from the top with a pair of nails per attachment point.