Next to grass, the concrete slab has become the garden's most important and most widely used floor covering. This is natural because concrete and concrete tiles have a wide range of advantages. It is very sustainable. Shape, color and surface structure can be varied in many ways. If the concrete slabs are not too large, they are also relatively easy to lay. If you like the challenge of producing as much as possible to your house, it's all the idea to also pour the concrete slabs yourself. In some cases, it is even necessary. Perhaps you want to replenish your old concrete slabs that have a shape that is no longer available on the market. Or just do it because it's fun, but knowing you do not have the time required, concrete slabs are still a fairly cheap option to buy!
In itself, a dense lawn is ideal as a floor in a garden . It is soft and harmoniously well in color and texture with other plants. But unfortunately, the grass does not fit on all surfaces. How much care you can put on a lawn, you can never get it so even that the garden furniture is standing steadily. Nor can it be so durable that it is not hurt by daily car traffic from and to the garage or car seat. A lawn marked by walkways is also not a constructive sight. In addition, the grass requires a very regular and careful care if the carpet is not to die. And it's certainly not just about mowing.
Against this background, it is obvious that, when it is practical, you go for harder materials. Many gardeners spend a lot of effort and big money on the floor and concrete concrete. Others invest equally wholeheartedly on, for example, natural stone. Despite the great choices, the majority still choose concrete slabs for their balconies, garage rides and passages. One reason is the regularity of the concrete slabs, which means a lot for the setting. Another is, after all, the price. Other materials were likely to have resulted in larger variations, but on the other hand, the price most often paid for them was followed by savings on other materials and amenities.
The best and most pleasant flooring for the garden is usually to mix materials such as harmonize with each other and with the plants. But even this does not rarely cause economic concerns. One way to afford such extravagances is to self-concrete concrete slabs. If you do not count on your own working hours, this home-made business is undoubtedly the cheapest and may mean something slipping over for something more luxurious. It's not hard to cast your own concrete slabs, but it takes time and you have to be patient enough to wait for the placement itself until you have put together a sufficient number of ready-to-use plates.
To make your own concrete slabs, you have to make a number of shapes to cast in. The size of these shapes depends, of course, on the size of concrete slabs you want. You are wise not to choose too large format, because the plates then become so heavy that they become difficult to lay. The 500 x 500 millimeter format should not be exceeded. One of the more common formats is 400 x 400 millimeters, and already in this format, each sheet must be weighted between 12 and 15 kilograms.
Of course, there is nothing that prevents you, for example, halving the format to 200 x 200 millimeters or found rectangular concrete slabs in the size 400 x 200 millimeters. If you are particularly interested in the design of a pattern, you can of course copy or, in your own imagination, compose your own designs: crosses, triangles, 8-edges, rods, bricks ...
Simply insert loose wood inserts into square or rectangular shapes. One thing you should not cope with is to cast irregular concrete slabs. It is not difficult to cast them, but placing them in a pattern that you are happy with is virtually convicted of failure. Plate size is of great importance for durability. If you create half-meter squares, the thickness should be 70 millimeters. On the other hand, do you make half as big concrete slabs 50, possibly 60 millimeters. The plates will still have good durability.
In any area, the thickness should be 70 millimeters if you intend to lay the concrete slabs on eg entrance or garage plan, where car traffic occurs. How many shapes you will manufacture depends on the rate at which you want to cast concrete slabs. Since you can not cast more than two batches a week, you will get up to 80 plates per month.
Trim Tube (1 ) Screwdrivers (2) Drivers (3) Tumstock (4) Angle hook (5) Drill, possibly (6)
Material for the molds:
Flat shaping, not clinger than 46 cm, Pivot iron, Excenterhasp, Screw. > Tools for the plates:
Buckle (9) Murslev (8) Rivetboard (9) Brush for oil (10) Ceiling brush (11) Grinding wheel for grinding (12) Shovel or mortar bucket (1 Shovel
Cement, Single, Sand or Coarse Concrete, Silicon or Other Surface Tile. Formula, Hardboard, such as Masonite, Thick Plastic Foil, Cement Paint,
3. Casting of concrete slabs.
4. Release molds after about 4 days.
5. Drying for about 3 weeks.
If you found lower Temperature than + 5o, you should wait a week to take the concrete slabs from the molds twice as long as in warmer weather. Concrete can not cure without enough water. At the risk of freezing it is very important that newly cast concrete is covered as soon as possible with insulation mats or straw that is laid on top of plastic film. The water in the concrete must not freeze.
1.Please measure the planed shape.
3. Make sure each piece of bite gets exactly the size. Also make a vertical saw mark using the angle bracket.
4.It is important that you look quite straight. Otherwise, the shape becomes skewed and you get worried with the placement.
5.Price the different shapes and measure the diagonals with a thumbsheet to get exactly right angles.
6.Take the pieces of the pieces together with common, simple joints, preferably with three screw fasteners on each side.
7.Brain the screws or arrange a good bracket for them using a screwdriver.
8.Please attach the pieces to a screwdriver so that they do not slip apart when you tighten the screw joint.
9.The fourth corner joint in any shape should be provided with a locking device. You can use a regular padlock.
10. However, it is even better if you choose an eccentric shoulder that tightly clamps the frame during the casting.
11. For example, to cast cross-shaped plates, place loose angles in it square squares.
12.Attachy squares are arranged with loose posts. However, be very careful with precise measurements for all shapes.
1.Add protective plastic where you will work. It is important to avoid both concrete splashes and unclean elements in the concrete.
3.Back carefully and correctly with the specified amount of water . It is among other things deciding whether the concrete will be frost resistant.
4. Since you need less surface concrete, it is advisable to mix it in a bucket or other suitable container.
5. If you have a more rustic surface layer, you can mix silicon, other natural stone or stone cross in the concrete concrete.
Correct proportions and two flat layers
In principle, a concrete slab must consist of two layers: the base layer and the surface layer. The latter is sometimes also called the fine layer. If you select a 60 mm plate thickness, the base layer may suitably be up to 50 millimeters and the surface layer will be approximately 10 millimeters. When pouring into concrete you can buy ready-made concrete on a bag and mix yourself. You are wise to follow the instructions of the package, but for the surface layer, the rule of thumb is 1 part cement, 4 parts single and an appropriate amount of water. The less water you can use, the better the concrete becomes. Approximately 0.6 liters of water to 1 kilogram of cement is considered to be a level that should not be exceeded.
The method costs a little more, but you should take into account that it is quite difficult to mix this "semi-finished product" and significantly heavier when the single is to be added . Since you are unlikely to deal with any large amounts of concrete mix for each casting, it is hardly possible to rent or get a mixer. You probably manage the concrete mix without any difficulty in a wheelbarrow or on a flat building board, a so-called low. Yes, of course you also need a shovel.
When mixing the concrete, keep in mind that you do not sprinkle the environment. It is very difficult to eventually remove concrete stains. It is also important that you do not contaminate the concrete mixture with, for example, soil, which can dramatically impair sustainability. Never mix into more concrete than you consume for about an hour and do not forget to clean the carriage and shovel before the mass gets stuck. In either case, you will otherwise incur unnecessary costs. Remaining concrete mix is completely unusable and must be discarded. Tools and molds that are not cleaned are also scraped.
Concrete concrete best for concrete slabs
In the same way as distinguishes between coarse concrete and fine concrete, the distinction is made between three concrete concessions. Each one is identified as follows:
- Plastic concrete, you can also form a ball. It smells on the other hand.
- Non-viscous concrete can not be formed into a ball. When concrete slabs are found, the most suitable concrete consistency is rigid.
Casting and drying
1.To release the concrete, you must iron the molded oil on concrete parts touched by the concrete before each casting.
3. Use mursleven to spread the foundation mix well. Fill almost up to the total thickness of the plate.
4.Pack the concrete mixture hard using a piece of art. It is important that no air spaces are formed.
5.When smoothed with the base layer with mursleven, you can lay the thinner surface layer over the entire surface.
6.Use a straight board and pull firmly with excessive concrete.
7.If you have glossy surface layers, pull off the surface with a properly dampened tearboard. Work in small and circular movements.
8.After half an hour after the demolition, you can smooth the surface with a steel board alternately lateral / perpendicular.
9. If you have chosen a stone or crust layer in the surface, you should wash this with a water-damped ceiling brush.
10.Pack the molds with a plastic or damp bag to prevent water evaporation while the concrete cures.
11.Efter about four days, the concrete is so firm that you can completely open the molds and lift the concrete slabs.
12.Lading the plates are the plates but only after about three weeks.
- Concrete slabs with smooth surfaces
- Concrete slabs suitable for stamping stones can be molded into a single shredded mold.
Worth knowing - Concrete slabs with a exposed surface layer
- A half concrete slab is only able to handle half of the entire concrete slab load. Therefore, the thickness of half concrete slabs should be increased if they are loaded where the load is high.