Most painting and wallpaper work requires well-done preliminary work to make the final result good. One of the most important moments in this preliminary work is Spackling .
There are now many easy-to-process and quick-drying filler masses. However, it is important that you do not apply too thick layers of filler at a time.
It is important that you choose flax pulp intended for the surface you are going to level.
There are several types of filler mass with a variety of coarse patches, tolerance and elasticity. For most indoor work, you can use fine sandpacker, but for carpentry you should instead choose a special filler for this surface.
There are also filler masses for surfaces that do not overlay afterwards, plastic wood. This mass is available in several color tones, intended for different wood types. Try to make a fair assessment of how much mass you will use. Spackle is a fresh produce and residues from an opened package should be consumed within a few weeks.
The width of the filler tool depends entirely on the areas to be spilled. With a series of Japanese packs, a regular steel packet and a pair of wide packs, you can handle most packing work.
Even when you do less packing, you may need a wide flap beside a narrower variant. When you pull out the pulp it always gets a little over.
The splitting work can be divided into three parts: ice packing, packing and broaching . When you pull out the first layer of filler over joints, nails or in deeper damage, perform an ice pack. In order to make the surface even, you may need to make one or more packings.
Remember to allow the mass to dry between each packing. The drying time varies between the different products, but it is usually not needed more than four hours of drying time.
The third moment - broad packing - is not always necessary. If you do not have to make extensive point packing and the surface is smooth and smooth, it's usually easy to shred the packed parties.
For example, if you want to wallpaper with an exclusive wallpaper or if the surface to be wallpapered has irregularities like You may feel familiar with the hand, but you should be broad-packed. This simply means that you level the entire substrate with one or a few layers of filler mass.
Even if you have done the work very well and used a fine-grained filler, you should finish by sanding the entire surface and then thoroughly dusting.
Most flakes are carried out in and around joints. Some materials "move" with the temperature changes in the house. This applies to plasterboard and particleboard. To avoid cracking in the ginger-packed joints, reinforce glass fiber splash strips.
There are self-adhesive strips or those that you glue or attach directly to the filler. When using glue it is important that you immediately scrape away any excess glue with a steel patch. Spackel fixes badly or not at all on a glue surface.
1. Flip over all the screws. Fill the longitudinal joint to half with filler. A 5 cm flap is suitable.
2. Disc material "moves" a little and the joints should therefore be reinforced. Put self-adhesive glass fiber strip over the joint.
3. You can use glass fiber strips without adhesive. Put the strip directly into the unpacked string. Squeeze the strip with a flap.
4. Flip the strip with multi-layer fluff. The surface should be level and level. Allow to dry between each packing.
5. Reinforce the corner angles with fiberglass. Glue or take self-adhesive strip. Excess adhesive must be removed. Putty.
6th For some works an impeccable basis is required. Widely wrap the surface 1-2 times. When the surface is dried, grind with slippers.
Cracks or damage to the wooden surfaces can be spilled with fine results. Use plastic wood and a narrow Japanese package.