In this article about furniture renovation Detailed information and step-by-step instructions with explanatory photographs to show you how to polish a wood surface is fine and fine.
It's unusual to draw a similarity between boning and polishing. These work techniques are similar in the sense that a liquid mixture is incorporated into the wood. But there the similarities end. When waxing, special wax or oil is used, which is incorporated into the wood but still leaves the pores of the wood open.
In the case of cellulosic polishing, the wood is painted with lacquer, grinding and polishing liquids until the wood pores are completely filled and the surface even.
Man carries and polished wood partly to give the surface layer a protective skin for the sake of appearance. Treated wood has a special luster and the wood is clearly visible. Polishing requires both time and patience, but if you have these qualities, you can also get old, hard-wearing furniture to look shiny.
There are three types of polishing: French, American and cellulosic polishing. American polishing means spraying or ironing on several thin layers of special oil lacquer. When the paint is dried, the surface is treated with a slip and polish to the desired shine. French polishing is also called shell lacquer polishing and is thus a surface treatment with a shellac based polishing and polishing.
Cellulose insulation, as shown in this furniture renovation article, is a combination of both other methods. This means that you first paint and grind the wood for two or more rounds, then the surface is worked with rinse and polish until the wood pores are completely filled and the surface smooth and smooth. Nowadays most furniture is treated with plastic lacquer, which makes the surface durable and easy to keep clean. Before the plastic lacquers were established, many furniture was treated instead with cellulose alloy.
The disadvantages of this surface treatment are that the surface is not as durable and durable, it also yellowish and crackles over time. Despite these negative properties, it may be an idea to treat older furniture with this method. You get the structure of the wood with the lacquer and polishing technique and look like a different way than the modern clear coat. This can sometimes be more valuable than the durability and durability of the surface treatment.
The polished surface does not have to be mirrored. If you prefer to have a matte surface, you process the completely dry surface with a very fine grain release paper, 800/1000. You can also use powdered pumice stone and roof brush, which is an older method.
The powder, which should be very fine-grained, spreads out very thinly over the surface, which is then brushed in the longitudinal direction of the wood. If the surface is round or has recesses, select the appropriate direction and work for it all the time. Brush away all the powder and assess the shine of the surface.
If you are not completely satisfied with the first treatment, continue the same way until you get the matte you want. Antique furniture, such as furniture made before the beginning of the 1900's, is usually polished according to the French method invented 1810-20. This furniture refurbishment method, however, requires a touch that the amateur hardly has.
Be careful not to smoke or use matches in the same room that you work with, for example, cellulose alloy and paint napkin. These mixtures are flammable, which means a fire hazard. For the same reason, you should always burn all the rags absorbed in solutions that are easy to ignite, even with good workouts. After finishing work, you should be able to get even traces.
If you want to give your old furniture this surface treatment, you should instead turn to a skilled craftsman. Even cellulose polishing, as shown in the image, requires touch, time and an angel's patience.
Before you can start the furniture cleanup and surface treatment, the table surface or furniture must be sanded very carefully so that any old paint or other surface layers will disappear. If the object to be polished has carved parts, these should also be cleaned well. Use any earplugs or toothpicks to reach angles and angles.
In some cases, sanding is not enough. If the paint or paint layer is thick, use a paint removal agent. When paint or paint is dissolved, remove the residue with plastic or wood scraper. It is easy to damage the wood when working with sheet metal.
To get a perfect finish on the furniture renovation, make sure the substrate is clean, dry, dry and dust free when you start. Then it's "just" to grind, lacquer, sickle, grind, paint, sickle, grind, polish, polish and polish again without losing patience. Then you get a final result that you can "mirror" you in.
Because the working technique is old, it can be difficult to get the material for polishing of this kind for your furniture renovation. Some of the ingredients are not stock items, but can be ordered from well-sorted chemicals or color traders.
When grinding between the paintings or polishing it is very important that you work along the fiber direction of the wood with a very fine grain slip paper, otherwise the surface will be scratched.
Also, never push Too hard at these moments, but only roughen the surface easily. This is also the reason why, in some cases, you should avoid using a cork cork block that works more stupidly against the substrate. If you need a grind support, use a hard felt pad.
Good luck with your furniture renovation!