In this article you will find detailed information and make it yourself instructions with explanatory photos on how to do and what to think about when making intarsia on tabs.
Intarsia is called the technique of incorporating different colored and shapely pieces of wood so that they form a pattern or image in a larger wooden surface, such as a table top, a drawer front or the like. The art of making intarsia is several thousand years old. The technique was long very complicated and was used almost exclusively by specially selected artisan artisans. Nowadays almost anyone can perform the intarsi ranch, among other things. thanks to the availability of different kinds of tabs.
However, a prerequisite is that you have patience and anger for perfectionism. The original intarsi woodwork is made of solid wood. The pattern parts that were to be folded were thus also cut out of solid wood. Since they were only a few millimeters thick, it would be easy to understand how difficult the work actually was. The craftsmen who successfully devoted themselves to the technology were not only especially talented, they also had many years of experience as finsnickers. When intarsia later got a little homework, it was still considered an exclusive hobby.
Well-made intarsi work was also highly appreciated, not least because of the material prices. The plant used was usually exclusively well-chosen, beautiful woods with particularly attractive aging. Older, preserved entries are also valued today very high. This can easily be assured by quoting prices for quality auctions where such work is not rarely represented.
Therefore, it is perhaps a little surprising that today's intarsia costs significantly less than in the past, and is much easier to perform. Both the technology and the price are influenced by the fact that for today's intarsi riots we can use tabs and that we have access to glue that gives a very safe result. Effective tools also play a big part.
Even though the art of making intarsalization has been simplified, many beginners make it very wise not to choose subjects that are too detailed. It's more fun to succeed in a simple job than just succeeding something so when with a more difficult one.
Because we can call insertion veneers either can be cut or saw we have chosen two simple motifs: a star for cut intarsia and a monogram
In both cases, we have put the patterns into a tray, but nothing prevents you from putting it in a matting surface, or perhaps even as a decorative tile, door or wall mirror. Of course, you have all the options to choose subjects according to your own taste, to draw it yourself or copy a suitable image.
Always try to find evenly dull tabs and take care of the aging. Keep in mind that the insert panel can be cut across the bottom of the bottom veneer. You can add intarsia positively or negatively, ie dark pattern against light background, or vice versa. Crucial to the end result is that you work with very well-cut knives, straighteners and saw blades. You may need to tighten the tools during work. It is therefore good to have a hand at hand. Sometimes other materials other than wood are also used for the inserts called intarsia. Metals, marble and ivory are classic examples of such materials.
Sniper knife (1) Leaf saw (2) Drill bit with drill steel, 1 mm 0 (3) Water tank (4) Plastic strip (5) Steel needle (6) Pointed pen (7) Toothpacker (8) Forks / glue knots (9) Grinding block (10) Brush for evaporation (11)
Drawing Paper, Carbon Paper, Tapes and Strips, Bottom Veneer, Folders in Different Colors, Newspaper Paper, PVA Glue, Pressed Plywood.
2. Match the subject over the tab sheet exactly where it should be. Tape the drawing paper. so it can not slip.
3. Squeeze a carbon paper underneath the drawing so that you get sharp contours on the subject.
4. Calculate the subject on the tray with a well-welded pen. Use ruler or drawing angle where you can benefit from them.
5. Make sure that you have got all the lines before dragging all tape and lifting the drawing paper.
6. Each time you put the blade in the tab, start at the sharpest angle to avoid splits.
7. Start by cutting out a half star massage. Let the knife run along the steel bowl. Do not press the tab.
8. With the first score as a mark, you can then, if this feels safe, cut the tabbed piece out of your hand.
9. Lift out the tabs cut out of the bottom plate with the blade tip. Try to get rid of the undamaged.
10. Cut the insert tab after the drawing, or even more preferably with the intact cut-out bit as a template.
11. Choose lighter tabs for example. left half of the star and darker for the right one. Then be consistent.
12. Take advantage of the veneer ring so that it radiates diagonally upwards and meets at the appropriate angle at the center of the star.
13. In case of injury, discard the tabs and cut a new one. Cut the knife straight through all the fibers.
14. Carefully fit the cut-out tab in place. Attach it with adhesive strips so it can not slide.
15. Make sure all tabs are evenly thick. Try making adjustments on the back of the insertion tab.
16. Continue in the same way with the following star halves and finally cut out the bonded octagon.
17. Check that all posts are edged. Please complete if necessary. Remove the fan layer from the substrate.
18. Keep working on a candle stick and check that no joints are too big. Any piece may need to be replaced.
19. Spread an even layer of PVA glue on the bottom plate. Use a toothed filler to form glue strings.
20. Carefully insert the sheet of paper with the insert into the glue bed and cover with newsprint that suits excess glue.
21. Add work between two presses of eg. plywood. Tighten hardest possible with forceps and / or glue cutters.
22. Press inside and out to avoid blistering. The drying time is stated on the glue package.
23. Now remove the adhesive strips that hold the tabs in place. First wet the strips with a sponge to make it easier.
24. Then there is a fine finish with knife tip, sandpaper and possibly solvent before the intarsian paint is painted.
2. Glue the "package" with 2 parts PVA glue and 1 part water. Press between plywood and force for a day.
3. Tape the monogram over carbon paper and over the motif on the veneer package, very carefully with a sharp pen.
4. Mount the leaf cutting table, gently drill 1 mm through the tabs and pull through the saw blade
5. Saw in the middle of the selection with one hand and one for the other. Begin at the center and sip any small pieces first.
6. Work slowly and with great care. It is important that all contiguous parts remain intact.
7. Place the motifs in lukewarm water. Separate them when the glue releases. Wipe slowly so that they do not crack.
8. It is important that all moisture leaves the veneer. Place the pieces for a while between soft drinks.
9. Place the bottom veneer against the future surface, such as plywood or a hard particleboard. Hold it down with gravity.
10. Then place the monogram parts in place in the clocks. The finer you saw, the better the fit.
11. Put adhesive strips over the joints and carefully lift off the entire intarsian.
12. Pull out PVA glue with toothed filler over the bottom plate and lay down the fan sheet in the glue bed.
13. Then apply a suction paper. This has to cover the entire surface, as it will address possibly. excess adhesive.
14th Put the tile under hard pressure with forceps / glue pieces between plywood boards until the glue has dried.
15. When the glue has dried properly, gently remove the adhesive strips. Fill out if necessary. small holes with elastic wood pulp.
16. Slide on top of the wood pulp with fine sandpaper before installing and painting.