Boning is a surface treatment with wax or oil that gives wood surfaces a protective surface layer without completely closing the pores of the wood. Many people are probably thinking first of all on boned parquet floors. Such, however, become more and more rare. However, it is more common for you to have furniture.
In fact, this maintenance is done every time you rub the wood furniture with teak or other furniture oil with a soft cloth. If the wood is scratched or has other marks, it may be a good idea to freshen up the surface with so-called oil boning.
Dear children have many names, and this really is a means of living. Polish, polish, teak oil, furniture spray are other names for means of this work technique. There is a large selection of oils, creams and other polishing agents for wood, plastic and linoleum substrates, and it is important that you choose preparations that are intended for the substrate to be boned.
There are two main groups of surfactants, partly those intended for wood partly for plastic and linoleum. No matter what material to be boned it is important that the substrate is properly cleaned. Previously brushed parquet floors must first be cleaned with special means to dissolve all old wax.
Plastic and linoleum floors to be boned should first be washed with polish cleaning. When servicing furniture, you do not usually need to clean the surface first. On the other hand, it is important that the wood is dusted and the soft polished leather clean. Even very small dirt particles can otherwise scratch the wood so that the surface becomes shine.
A basic rule when using wood is to always work in the oil in the longitudinal direction of the wood. Then the liquid can penetrate into the pores of the wood and you get a better surface protection. In addition, it is easier to get the shine in the wood, thus revealing its character and lust if you do not sweep around with the cloth. A well-drained surface should never be left wet. Work with the cloth until all oil has penetrated the surface.
If you have too much oil in the cloth so that the wood is completely saturated, wipe the overflow with a dry, soft and clean cloth. The boned surface protects against penetrating dirt and water stains. The surface treatment can handle alcohol spillage if these liquids are dried immediately.
The surfaces that may need to be boned sometimes have no other surface protection, such as plastic lacquer, but are untreated or only insolished. Untreated wood is usually easier to get both dirt and repainting on, but it is also easier to remove these beauty spots again.
Soft Brushes (1) Brushes (2) Protective Gloves (3) Trasor (4) Toothbrushes (4) Felt or chalkboard.
Linen boiled or raw, Balsam turpentine, Teak oil, and possibly Shellack polityr, Wax stained, unpainted, Wet paper no. 240, Trassel.
Man boned untreated parquet with solid or liquid bonvax. The substrate should be well cleaned before you begin. It is very difficult to bona larger areas by hand. Boning machines are available for hire with certain color traders and cleaning companies. There are several types of floor polish for plastic and linoleum floors in the trade. Some of these are metal-bonded, which makes the surface less slippery.
Some polishes should only be ironed out on a clean-up surface and then dry, while others require post-dry drying. There is also all-in-one means that cleans and bonks at the same time. Bona like door doors or exposed wall panels, so the surfaces are easier to keep clean from grease and other dirt.
1.Use boiled or raw linseed oil and balsam turpentine. Mix equal parts of the ingredients into a jar. Stir thoroughly so that everything is mixed well. Dum the surface.
2.Melt the surface with the linseed oil mixture or undiluted teak oil. Use a brush or cloth. Take a little at a time and do not apply too much for the first time.
3.Plast only the linseed mixture on the surface to be sanded. You can also grind dry when the oil has dried and then oil again.
4.Use wet paper no. 240 and a felt or chalkboard and then grind the wood in the longitudinal direction. Always grind with light hand.
5. There should be oil between paper and wood all the time. Also grind the edges. Make sure you have leveled evenly across the surface.
6.Smile the smoothness with your hand across the surface. If you feel any unevenness, continue to process the surface with wet paper until the surface feels even.
7.Wipe it out of excess oil with a clot or a cloth. Now let the surface dry a couple of days before continuing the patience work.
8. Then brush the entire surface with a soft brush, and the wood will be fine and the gloss will last better. Brush the surface until you are completely satisfied.
1.Use the shellack polity and saturate the surface with this. Apply a brush or brush with a cloth strap. Let dry for 5-6 hours.
2. Slide the surface lightly with wet paper no. 240. To get a more filled surface, you may repeat step 1 again. Wipe out any excess with cloth or cloth.
3.Press wax with a cloth. If you use colored wax it is extra important that you get it evenly. Allow the surface to dry for at least 24 hours.
4.When the wax has dried, wipe the surface with a soft cloth. The gloss increases the harder and faster you rub. Process the surface until you have a beautiful shine.
5. Now it's time for the finish. Brush the whole surface with a brush that has a short and soft brush, so you get a smooth and fine shine.
Many preparations intended for housing contain flammable liquids. Burn up or soak the rags used with these means before throwing them. If you want to reuse the trays, store them in a sheet jar.
Never use polish etc on lime oak because the surface layer can then be destroyed. Bean preparation gives slippery surfaces. Newly-drained floors and furniture from furniture polishing etc, therefore, imply high risk of fire, so be careful.