In this article you will find detailed information and step by step instructions with explanatory photographs on how to grind with hand-to-hand slippers.
There are professionals who seriously claim that grinding wood is a science. Most people surely perceive such an assertion as a clear exaggeration and a manifestation of unpredictable professional pride. It must be anyway with that matter. The statement is at least a fingernail that grinding is actually advanced professional technique, how easy the data may seem to be.
To grind wood is absolutely basic for all painting work and for virtually all wallpapers. In all the finer painting work, it is also a matter of hand-shaping.
On new wood surfaces we do not accept labels on furniture, door posts, window frames or the like. Of course, this is because we now have technology to get very thin, even wood surfaces the prerequisite for perfect painting.
Most of us still talk about sandpaper. Occupational painters, on the other hand, have abandoned the term for a long time. The reason is clear: sand is rarely used as abrasive, but has been replaced by significantly more effective materials.
Nowadays the release paper and the working material are abrasives. There is also a distinction between natural abrasives and synthetic abrasives. Natural abrasives can be flint, garnet and glass, crushed to different grain sizes and glued to special paper.
Synthetic abrasives are made of silicon carbide and corundate the latter a hard material of alumina. The difference between nature and synthesis is quite large. Natural abrasive grains often become quickly dull and then cut poorly. The synthetic is harder and keeps the sharpness better.
There are both Swedish and imported slippery papers. The paper is graded according to the size of the grinding grain. The table contains a European and an international scale. There you can also see which grit size is suitable for different types of work.
Because it is quite common for you to inherit or otherwise take over tools, it happens that you meet older numbers. A distinction was made between sandpaper, sandpaper and waterproof sandpaper. Sandpaper was numbered from 1200, which is the finest, to 10.
Slippers are made with different coarse pieces on the grinding pieces, which are glued to special paper. Slippers are sold
in sheets and rolls.
| European |
| International |
|P 12|| GROVT |
- For Wood, old paint, rust and fiberglass.
For grinding of aluminum oxide grids.
For hand grinding with flint grain.
|1 3/4||P 40|
|1 1/2||P 60|
|1||P 100|| BETWEEN |
- with flint alumina
and silicon carbide.
|P 220|| FINT |
- Used for finishing and post-finishing (polishing) hard wood ,
metal and plastics. Silicon carbide grains
Do not use slip or oscillating grinding additive combined with a hobby machine on surfaces to be coated with clear coat. The lacquer surface acts as a magnifying glass and makes the circular grinding pattern appear extra clearly.
If a slip paper is felt very smoothly, the manufacturer may have applied a thin glue layer over the abrasive. It worn off when you start to grind. When renovating older furniture, the finest steel wool is a very good abrasive especially when finished. Fine-mesh steel wool is also the most suitable abrasive on surfaces to be polished.
A slip paper has either open or dense grain coating. Open coating is best suited for rough grinding of porous surfaces, a dense hard work. The international grind grading is attributed to the screen meshes per inch. used for sifting abrasives.
With your hand you can feel how effective a slip paper is. If the paper is very stiff, it may be because there are grit grains on top of the actual grains. Such paper may cause damage to the ship. Slippers, which can also be found in rolls, were graded from 500, which is the finest to 40.
Waterproof sandpaper, finally, numbered 50 - 600. It is only used for wet wiping with water or diluent.
How extensive preliminary work is required before you can grind a surface to be painted or wallpapered depends on the state of the surface. Damage, bursts and other irregularities must be made or covered with strips and leveled with fluff.
For a painted, varnished or lacquered surface to be perfect, the substrate must be even and clean. The same requirements apply to wallpapers. The perfect wood surface, which should be both beautiful and firmly attached to the paint, can not be achieved otherwise than by grinding. When sanding wood surfaces always apply: Slip the longitudinal direction of the wood, that is, with the grave!
You can remove a large scale of roughness, such as spackling, with a paint scraper. Scratches of tempered and ground steel and with convex eggs give insignificant traces. Slippers and scissors are available in many types with different effects. Setting a certain grain size for a particular job is almost impossible.
Slip paper with different grain sizes.
• Soft wood, like pine, should not be sanded with finer paper than P 120.
• Hardwood wood, eg mahogany, should not be grinded with finer than P 150.
• When wet grinding, use fine paper like P 220 400. Wet grinding is only done on painted or painted surfaces. The liquid may be water or lacquer.
Steel wool or nylon cloth are other abrasives, but watch out with cleaning pads that are usually used in the household. They run well hard. Steel wool also has different sizes. The finest are used for final grinding. For hand grinding, you need a brick, around which drawer or cloth is laid. Wooden blocks are too hard to give a smooth surface.
Color scraper (1) Grinding brush (2) Paint brush (3) Material:
This is what you need when grinding slippers on wood:
Napkin or water (by wet grinding) Cutting paper or cloth
1.The basic rule for all grinding on wood is to grind the aging, ie in the longitudinal direction of the work, never against it. Already painted surfaces must be ground in the direction of ironing.
2. Do not work too much slippery paper. Fold the paper twice, so that the width becomes about your index finger.
3. Grind of cork or felt distributes pressure at grinding. Fold the paper around the block, push it by hand.
4.The advantage of slipping blocks of this kind is that the tab is clamped and therefore does not slip.
5. If you rupture an already painted surface to get a better grip on the paint, slip in the direction of painting.
6. You have not skinned enough if you can feel the flak as an elevation in an already painted surface.
7. A concave surface allows you to grind by laying a release paper around a piece of round bar in the appropriate dimension.
8. The tabbed underneath the tile abuts the edge of the disc, the paper under the wood bit fits the edge in the same torque.
9. Always wipe down too sharp edges. If you do not round them slightly, the paint can not be attached.