One of the prerequisites for the art of mura are the most simple but extremely well-proven and designed tools available. The tools have been used by generations of masons and their origins are still alive today, but as the material they are made of over time has become increasingly refined, masonry technology has become both simpler and more refined. Thus, the amateur grandmother's chances of developing great professionalism have also increased significantly. "Mura free is big, Mura right is bigger!" - This winged word is originally an operation with the Freemasonry Order, but at the same time - if taken seriously - a perfect deed of art to mura.
namely so-called personal experience - that is, in this case, the assessment of what is "lagom" -like just within the masonry. In this assessment, the tools play a decisive role. It will be felt in the hand when mursleven holds a "legitimate" amount of use, that cutting life has the right form for proper work and so on.
Unwritten rules of this kind have contributed to the regret of generations of professional masons and privileges beyond what has been usually in other craftsmen. Sweden's first bricklayer - who was also involved in the construction of Uppsala Cathedral - had its title already on September 9, 1340. The centuries have thus also been important for the masonry in the building art.
This has turned its mark in, for example, the home city. Normally few or no masonry tools are included in the standard equipment. The reason is, of course, that most amateurs live in faith that it is too difficult to mix and squeeze stones and, therefore, rarely throws it away. Resistance and fear, however, diminish as you get into three things:
First, it is no longer so difficult and difficult to make mortar mixtures. There are half-manufactures in handy packaging and hired machines can take over the heaviest job.
Secondly, the building and platform range is so rich and musty that you do not often need to use wall hammers, slings and chisels. Thirdly, the hand tools have become increasingly smoother over the years, and much easier to handle.
You can even say that the development has played the amateur wallet in your hands. The professional wallmaker is often charged with provincial traditions in terms of tools. As these become increasingly international, the professional wallmaker may find it difficult to accept that a Dutch model model is as useful as a Swedish, German, Norwegian or Danish type. For the amateur murmur this is of secondary importance. The main thing is that the tools are handy and work satisfactorily.
Mursleven is the most important
The most important tool of the mason, however, is murs life. Secondly, there are two variants of this, namely cutting life, which may be needed for smaller masonry and masonry work, and logging life, which, after all, is necessary in some instances at most joints. The test map of masonry tools presented here is quite complete, which means that much of what is presented is not needed other than in special situations. But when you encounter difficulties, you should take advantage of the best results.
A concrete mixer is not just a machine man as a homeowner is standing in the garage even though there are actually removable 220 volt 1-phase mixers. Try to borrow or rent a mixer when you can not avoid one. Another economical option is to merge a "mixer".
Many of the tools already have
A common hammer is an example. It needs to be able to nail masonry. A water spray is necessary to enable you to dump the water. The syringe that you usually shower potted plants works well. A steel pallet is good to handle when laying, for example, slits and casters. Here you can use the joints for building joints.
Similarly, a wheelbarrow is necessary, like a root brush and a bucket. The bucket should ideally be a wall bracket of heavy polyethylene plastic. It should be almost straight, easy to hang up and accommodate 18 liters. If you do not already have a waterpass, you can choose a mooring pass of just over a meter long, of mahogany and with three adjustable dragons - one wave and two loads.
Sooner or later, you must also have a low to mix a little larger amount of concrete or use on, but it easily combs yourself with surplus effects. For the mixture, a shovel is also required that you will find among the gardening tools. You may also need to span a straight line. In principle, you can use any strings, but if you get a brick wall of short-fitting nylon this has the correct extensibility.
1.A common murslev of Norwegian model. The sleeve is conically ground, hardened steel and has a handle of a book.
2.Putssleven is used for punching of putties. This is made of cold-rolled, sanded steel sheet and has riveted angel.
3.Slear leather is mostly used for minor bearings. This is a disston model in tempered steel and with a handle of a book.
4.Only, it is evident from the name what mursleven is used for. This type is called loading liner and is of the Tyrol model.
- When mixing, start by pouring more than half of the amount of water indicated on the packaging. Then add the remaining portionwise until you have the correct consistency.
- Never mix for more use than you can use it within an hour and never add water in an attempt to touch up already used stitches.
- Approximately 25% of a wall consists of joints. There are often reasons to use colored use for joints. In addition to a number of standard colors, you can order almost any color anywhere.
- Always use as much use as needed to fill the joint once. Trying to stop in more use afterwards is convicted of failure. A skilled mason follows the rule that "laid stone is located"!
5.With the tiling of tiles, you are advantageously using a special circular tip with a rounded tip. This is of Hamburg model.
6.The toothpack is needed when pulling out, for example, tile mass. This type has teeth around all sides, but is wider on two.
7.At the roof life has its given workspace, it appears from the name. This is a Danish model, conically trimmed with tempered steel.
8.Tungslev in tempered steel with rounded tip. The model is used for minor workmanship.
9. Fogslevar is made of tempered steel and finely chipped. They are used for application of joint pulp.
10. Large-scale pants are called mass loads. They are often made of about 1 mm band steel. This is 45 cm long.
11. A wood board does not have to be wood. This is made of tempered and finely ground 1 mm thick steel and is called "Skånska".
12.Puts or tear boards are used for tearing and can, as shown in the picture, be of plastic.
13.With an element canitz, you will find behind difficult places such as elements, pipelines etc.
14. The above is made of book and is used, as the name suggests, for equalization of joints and so forth.
15.A rectangular calf fastening you need to splash punching shavings.
16.A masonry bucket should be extra powerful and have a circular arc with pendant. It should also be liter graded.
17. A machine wiper allows you to connect to the drill to mix, for example, smaller quantities of concrete or use.
18. The spray gun is a modern masonry tool. You load with cartridges that contain glue, joint mass.
19. The stopping device is used, for example, for splashing nipples. It has replaceable steel brush roll and an additive for narrow surfaces.
20.With the wall of the masonry hammer you cut pieces of passports. The battle is square. The shaft may be of ash, hickory or steel pipe.