Many people talk about "murröta", but nobody really knows what it is. The term is often used "for everyday life", but never in strict architectural contexts. What most of the purpose is aimed at is the murmur of a masonry caused by moisture and humus substances, which, among other things, results in mold attacks, which in turn resemble the microbiologically contaminated rot, which breaks down wood and wood-based materials.
Even Therefore, if the word "murröta" can not be unambiguously defined, and building expertise therefore shifts the axes to the name, most homeowners still know quite well what is meant. One refers to the problems that occur in the basement of, in particular, older houses, but which may also occur in other masonry and tiled surfaces both indoors and outdoors. In the vast majority of cases, "murrötan" restricts to the unpleasant odor and general discomfort that, for example, mushrooms and algae make with. In a longer perspective, however, the consequences can be as serious as the expression itself is unhappy. The vibration can go so far that it causes such damage to the building structure that its power is drastically compromised.
The fact that older cellars are more often affected than others is linked to the fact that buildings eventually have "old age" and that one or another renovation not seldom worsens air circulation or rubs heat balance and thus creates the conditions for a downturn. In principle, "murröta" assumes two actions: the moisture damage that has already occurred must be repaired and the root cause must be cleared so that the process does not resume or start again. This in turn requires careful troubleshooting. In unfortunate cases, the result of this may require extensive measures, ground reinforcements and drainage of home ground.
In the vast majority of cases, however, the problems are relatively relatively superficial and concentrated to the basement and relatively easily eliminated. What this mostly means is shown on these cards.
Moisture damage is complex and difficult to derive and requires specialist competence. What's needed in tools and materials to halt the "murrötan" depends entirely on where you find the attacks and how extensive they are. Therefore, always consult a surveyor for moisture damage investigations when you suspect moisture damage.
When masonry or dirt in a building begins to wipe, almost always moisturizes the large top. So when you search for "murröta" traces, it is primarily a sign of abnormal moisture you should look for. On the other hand, it is far from certain that you will find the clearest signs in just the masonry or sacked parties. Very often, they appear more clearly on adjacent wood materials and in cardboard cladding on, for example, plasterboard.
When you look a little closer to materials that are not attacked by rotting, but weird, you are more likely to get the "murrötan" on the tracks. In the text "TROUBLESHOOTING" you get examples of moisture balance errors.
1. Frost damage. Because water swells in cold conditions, high humidity and low temperatures cause frostbite. The damage is usually clear fractures.
2. Salt and white rings. Salts in the structure are enriched in the surface layer by moisture evaporation.
3. Lime curtains. A chemical degradation in the surface layer, where calcium hydroxide is converted into carbonate.
4. Rot fungi. Occurs on wood and wood-based products when water in the wood breaks down.
5. Corrosion. Rust and other corrosion that occurs when the relative humidity is too high.
6. Moisture Movements. Moisture movements are found in virtually all building materials, even in concrete and concrete.
7. Insulation defects. This is primarily referred to as insufficient heat insulation, which deteriorates sharply when moisture increases.
8. Uneven contamination. The moisture of a surface, the easier it draws dirt of different kinds.
The most common signs of "murröta" in the basement are stains of mold or so-called soil layers. The reason for their occurrence is almost always an excessive air circulation. If the house is older and you have never had similar concerns, the attacks are almost always associated with any big or small change. You may have sealed windows and doors or additional insulated floor. Perhaps you have just installed a new heating system that does not leak as much waste heat as the old one did.
Another common cause of "murröta" is to discover how rarely the cellar spaces are utilized and this will cause the heat to be reduced in this part of the house. Vips has increased the moisture migration and invited algae and mushrooms and thus an upcoming weathering. Such a trivial thing as closing the valves one day when the cold hits and then forget to open them again can actually be cause.
What must be done to keep the development that leads to it Vittring we call "murröta" naturally depends, of course, on what is the cause. Construction defects and comparable deficiencies may require thorough action. but whatever is the case, a big cleaning is required in the real sense of the word. Not only does it mean a thorough ventilation of affected areas, but also a complete cleaning of mold and algae remedies, so that molds, mosses and algae get into the last residue.
In other cases, efforts may be completely meaningless. Surviving molds spread rapidly and after a short period of time, worry is back. In addition, it is almost always necessary to improve and secure ventilation, to increase the heat and thus speed up the drying process. But do not forget that the heat in the basement level rises upwards in the house - if an opportunity is given.
A common damage to the old concrete floor is what it calls pot holes, ie crater-like holes in the wear layer. Such damage can and should be done, but it must be done with great care.
The punch hole is made with a plum, which is anchored in the surrounding floor. To fix the plunger, you must cut the hole to at least 25 mm deep. The edges should be straightened, but lean slightly so that the hole gets bigger in the bottom than the top.
All cuttings should be brushed with steel brush and watered thoroughly for a few days. The watering causes the surrounding concrete to not absorb moisture from the storage plant. Before you "seal" the hole, you must brush the edges and the bottom with thin-flowing cement use. When the coating is torn off at the height of the wear surface, the seal should last for about one week.
When applying a concrete surface, you should first apply a tin with cement-rich use to get a good adhesion. Mix, for example, dry signal use with water to vellum consistency and lay 1-2 mm.
To get a durable layer of potting, it is important to carefully remove all damaged pads and parts that seem to loosen. If you then rinse and brush the warehouse with a steel brush, remove any loose pieces of particles and the substrate is properly sucked.
When making a crack, cut the 2-4 cm pad on each side of the crack. Cut the edges so that the "laying lip" can not fall out.
1.Poor air circulation increases the risk of injury. Make sure that the valves function and that they open again if closed.
2. You can increase the heat in the basement by completely or partially removing the insulation on the heating pipe leading up to the housing. A cheaper alternative is to insert a heating element.
3.Call water pipes are often "sweated". Even a slight moisture coating can be harmful. You will get rid of moisture if you isolate the pipes.
1. The signs of moisture damage that may develop into "mooring" are soils or spots of mold. They are usually found in wall corners.
2.Fukt patterns often appear on the walls behind, for example, furniture. These stains are always signs of poor air circulation.
3. If you have wallpapers, you should tear them down. Otherwise, molds and algae may come back after the remediation.
4.Whites that show signs of moisture attack should be brushed clean with a steel brush. For large surfaces you may need a grinding machine.
5.Less painting paint indicates moisture damage and must be removed. You can probably scrape the paint with a steel plaster.
6.Flashed surfaces and, of course, any cracks must be filled and leveled with use, filler or other suitable filler. Use a steel patch.
7. When the layers are properly dry, carefully sand the entire surface, even the paint that may remain. Best results are provided with slippers and bristles.
8.Create a solution of, for example, a piece of chlorine and two parts of water and wash well and brush a hard brush. Use protective gloves.
9.When the surfaces are dry, use a ceiling brush to spread an extinguishing agent over attacked surfaces. Please feel free to protect your skin and eyes.
10. Finally, clean the cleaned surfaces. Choose a color with anti-algae and paint with roles twice. Let the paint dry between the strokes.
1. Cracks in a walled or molded basement wall may indicate a severe set or lack of drainage around the house. Try to repair the damage.
2.Putts that bend, crack and flake from the surface are a complete beauty failure. Often it indicates a moisture damage that can develop into "murröta". P>
4.Fill the crack with a coating on a steel package and sand the coating after it has been wiped with sandpaper.