Here you will get tips on preliminary work before painting. Here you will find it yourself description of preworking of walls before starting and painting.

Painting - prefabrication of walls before painting

Painting - prefabrication of walls before painting


It's easy to believe that painting works quickly and easily. Just buy a pair of buckets of paint and some brushes, take away furniture and paintings from the walls and iron out the paint. So fast, if you want a really good result of your work However, you do thorough preparatory work - even if it takes time - the painting works as on the rail. It is inspiring and fun to renew a room or clean the entire house with new colors. If you want to get your work done really well, you should spend a lot of time on work before painting. Most moments in the process are not very difficult, but work takes time. Therefore, make sure you have a lot of that product so you do not have to go with the "hartassen".

Inspect the surfaces you are going to paint. If they are already painted or wallpapered, find out some "history" about the substrate. What kind of wallpaper is on the wall? Are there several layers below the visible fathers? What kind of color forms surface layers on the painted wall?

The answers to the questions give you important guidelines in the continued planning, as well as in the choice of color. After painting and other wall decorations, as well as lifting the furniture that stands along the walls, examine the surfaces carefully. It's up to you to discover the flaws the wall has and decide what to do with them. The aim of the survey is to create the conditions for an absolutely even painting foundation.

If the base is made of wood, you will flip back the creaking and sanding the aging that will be "lifted" by the new painting. If you paint on an already painted surface, you must, among other things, flush any holes in the jar and refill irregularities that occurred when the old paint flattered.

When painting a wallpapered surface, you need to grind the wallpaper joints, tear away or paste firmly loosened wallpaper, smooth out blisters and possibly also make the wallpaper. If you want a smooth painting surface and the wallpaper has a well-embossed relief pattern, you need to grind the entire wall or consider tearing down the entire wallpaper. In addition to these actions, which are special for each substrate, remove the wall bins, wall contacts, etc., and wash the walls with target soda.

A completely untreated wall surface in a newly renovated room also needs careful preliminary work. Here all the nails must be properly sealed and then spilled. All joints should also be flushed and sanded. When doing the preparation for painting, it is often as important with good ventilation as during the painting process. Because the prework contains a lot of grinding, make sure that any furniture in the room is well covered and that the doors to the rest of the house are closed while working.

This is what you need for pre-work before painting:

Tools:
Brush blade knife (1) Brushes (2) Stainless steel pistols in different sizes (3) Hot air gun (4) Slip clamp (5) Soft brush (6) Piassavakvast (7) Washing sponges (8) Buckets (9) Protective gloves Stege

Material:
Sand, fast or wet compartment, Slippers, Protective Paper or Plastic, Detergents, Solvents, Masking tape, Trays, Wallpaper paste, Paint strips, Special liquid for priming of seamed surfaces.

When you are really satisfied with your pre-work and think it's time to put color on the wall - hang it up! Instead, take the vacuum cleaner and vacuum the entire room - especially the walls. If you miss this, you can have a knotty surface when painting, how careful you have been with the whole process.

When your arms are not enough

The steps are a good tool that you may need when looking nice at the indoors . There are two types of ladders, one on two legs as you lean against the wall, and one step on the four steps. When you get the steps or get home a loan, make sure it is full and no brackets are loose.

If you find that your ladder is broken, do not fix it without investing instead in a new one. It is best for safety reasons. The stairway is the one that uses the most in indoor work. It is not so high, stands for itself and is still. No matter what ladder you use, you should make the habit of never climbing higher than your thigh rests against the top step. Then you stand steadily and the risk is not so great that you fall down if you happen to be in imbalance. Remember to never set the steps in front of a closed, but unlocked door. Always adjust the door instead.

If you are going to paint the walls of the stairwell, it can be difficult to reach the entire wall, which will be two floors high. Then you can build a platform using two ladders and one or two steady boards. Place a two-legged ladder in the staircase, so that the legs take a jumper against the staircase. To get a steady platform, the other steps should be a step ladder.

This is set on the second floor, by the stairs. Place the board at one of the lowest steps on the stairs and slide the board in place on the other steps. Make sure the board you are standing on is as flat as possible. If the distance between the two ladders is more than two meters, you should add another board to get a better stand on the "bridge bridge". If the ladders that lean against the wall do not have rubber-coated ends, you can protect the wall by pulling a pair of sturdy socks over the ends that lean against the wall. Just be aware that the steps can not slip.

Planning

1. Since the room to be painted can not be used sometimes you do the work, you must plan well in advance.
2. Think about how the "new" room will work.
3. Determine the time with an electrician if you need to move or put your extra outlet.
4. Review the areas to be painted and determine the extent of the work.
5. Measure the room and figure out how much color you need.
6. Buy home all material and get tools and clothes.

Work

1. Pull all nails and hooks out of the wall
2. Wash and scrape
3. Sand
4th Brush or vacuum the surfaces

Protect the furniture when painting

The work you do when painting indoors is often dusty. Additionally, one can not avoid splashing color while painting as careful as possible. Therefore, it is important to protect furniture and the surfaces that are not to be painted, such as the door into the room. Of course, the best thing is to empty the room on its content. If you can not, you should assemble the furniture in the middle of the room. Then you get the largest work surface.

Then cover the floors, furniture, painted doors, the fireplace etc with protective plastic or paper. Tape all joints and edges next to sockets with masking tape. If the paper or plastic breaks during work, tape back the tear away, so you reduce the risk that despite the coverage stain.

Paint consumption

Take 2 x length x height + 2 x width x height to get the number of square meters to be painted. You can expect a liter of color to be about 5 m2.

An example: The room you are painting is 3 meters long, 2 meters wide and the ceiling height is 2.30 meters. 2x3x2.30-13.80 M7 2x2x2,30 = 9.20 sq m Total: 23 sqm 23 m2 divided by 5 m2 - 4.6 liters of paint / ironing.

As the room only has a door and a window, you count not remove any painting space for these. However, if you have multiple doors or windows, you should of course reduce the surface of these.

Worth knowing

Even though you live in a rental apartment, you are allowed to paint the walls. It is important to remember that the work will be well done - professionally - otherwise you may be required to return the apartment in the condition it was when you moved in.

The color choice also has a certain importance. If you color the apartment in an overly personal style, you will also be able to paint the apartment as you move from there. If you wash a wall painted with latex paint, with warm water, the dirt can crawl under the paint. Then you get a flammable surface, which can be difficult to cover with the new color. Instead, use cold water when washing such surfaces.

Paper Staple As Underlay


1. Cut the edges around the torn portions with sandpaper. Smooth at the same time of all wallpaper shards.


2.Wash the wallpaper with lukewarm water. If the wallpaper has grease stains, mix the target soda into the wash water.


3.If bubbles occur in the wallpaper, this is because there is no adhesive on the back of the wallpaper. Cut the blisters.


4.Wrap the wallpaper tabs carefully. Use your finger or a thin brush and iron on wallpaper clips.


5.Press the tabs against the wall again. Make sure the wallpaper is smooth.


Wet wash as a base


1.Wear protective gloves and wash the entire wallpaper with lukewarm water mixed with target soda.


2.If any joint has loosened, glue it again.


3. If you notice that large portions of the wallpaper are loose, it is best to completely remove the wallpaper.


4.Crack and then grind the wall with slippery paper . There must be no residue left on the painting surface.

Painted walls as underlay


1.Please remove all old loose paint. Use a scraper or a flap and scrape the wall without damaging the surface.


2.If the paint is difficult to remove, use a paint removal agent. Brush on the medium and allow it to last a while.


3. Then scrape the dissolved paint with a flap. Scratch carefully so that you do not damage the surface.


4.You can also use a hot air gun to loosen the paint.
5.Use a steel patch and scrape the paint while it is still hot.


6.Wash the wall thoroughly clean with lukewarm water mixed with target soda.


7.Wipe the wall carefully. Dip your fingers into the rinse water. When the water is no longer dry, soda is completely gone.


Tip!

If you want to paint in wet rooms, it is important that you choose a special wet room package. This is water repellent and tolerates the presence of moisture. When doing prework for painting in a wet room, make sure that the layer under a loose wallpaper is properly dry before painting the wall with paint for the first time. The paint will otherwise enclose the moisture and you may be exposed to moisture damage in the wall.

Spackle, the cleaned surface

1.Take a click of filler on the filler path. If you are going to flush a lot, it's easy to work with two fluffles.


2.Press the filler into the hole that you will cover.


3. Remove any filler strips that may occur next to the filled cavity or crack.


4. Do not apply too much filler at a time. . Then you get slight elevations in the wall.


5.Lip the flap dry thoroughly. If there is a larger hole to fill, flush again.


Tips!


Because chipboards move slightly, you should use fake discs to get as invisible joints as possible. If you have a chipboard or building board as a painting pad, you can usually drop the other filler on top of the fiberglass strip. You can often get the desired smoothness even after the first packing on these substrates.

Warning

Never leave masking tape for more than a day. If you do not base and paint during that time, it is better to change the tape. Once the tape has been stuck securely on the window glass, it can only be scraped off with razor blades. Avoid breathing vapors that form when washing with ammonia solution. A protective mask with a filter should be used.

Clean plasterboard or particleboard

1.Gips or chipboard that have not been painted before must be sealed. Start by tapping all nails.


2.Pack all nail holes with sandpackle. Be careful so that you do not miss a hole.


3. Put a layer of filler in the joint between the discs. Start at the bottom of the joint and flush upwards.


4. Let the spackle wipe properly. Then sand with sandpaper and brush off the grinding dust.


5.Then flip a fiberglass strip on top of the flap. The strip prevents the splitting from cracking.


Clean wood surfaces as underlay


1.Insolve any square holes with shellack.


2.If you want a really smooth painting surface, you should grind down the elevations that may occur in the tree's grazing.


3.Use the acrylic pulp and flak again cracks in the wood. Allow the mass to dry and flush it once more.


Tips!

When using a hot air gun to remove paint from the wall, you can control the hot air using loose nozzles. With a screen nozzle, you can remove paint that is, for example, close to a door list without damaging the paint on the list. Do not hold a gun closer than 10 cm from the wall, otherwise there is a risk of burning the surface.

Curled walls

1.Place all loose brush with a brush. For example, if you have a piassavakvast, it is great to use this.


2.Only putty and concrete, you can repair damage with sandpackel. First wipe the damage with water.


3.Use a wide packet and refill the hole with filler. Flip first from side to side ...


4. then from top to bottom. If the damage is adjacent to one edge, you should work perpendicular to the edges.


5.If ​​the wall, despite careful preliminary work, releases, you must ground with a primer.


Release

1.Please grind with coarse sandpaper. Always slip in the same direction as you plan to paint.


2.Get your hand over the sanded areas. Feel like a rake, take a while.


3. If the surface feels dull or uneven, you should flush again. Let it dry thoroughly before sanding again.


4.To slip a thin surface, fold the slipper and release the edge of the slipper on the surface.


5.Brush away the grinding dust. Only when the floors and walls are free from all dust, you can start painting.


Tips!

Always wash the wall from the bottom up to avoid washing the surfaces on the surface. If the substrate is not properly cleaned before painting, there is a risk that the paint will not fit properly. It is therefore also important that you rinse the wall carefully from the target sore.



Video: How to prepare an external wall for painting|

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