New plastic mat? Here you will find great tips on plastic mats and what you need to consider when buying and installing a new plastic mat.

Plastic mat - How to load a plastic mat

Plastic mat - How to load a plastic mat

One of the most common jobs you can do is to add new floor coverings. If you choose to put a plastic mat, you can basically get what character you want on the floor. There are plastic mats with natural patterns of wood, cork, stone, clinker, but also plastic mats with modern imaginative patterns and colors. If you have a good foundation for the new floor, you can loosen or glue the plastic mat directly on this. Should you put a plastic mat on a wooden floor or concrete floor, some work is required. An overly soft surface, such as a carpet mat, must be removed completely.

The basics of wallpaper and mattening can be broadly equated. It is equally important in both cases that the substrate is really even and clean. If you want a good result, you must be as accurate as pattern matching and direction of light relative to joints. It is important that you get all air between the substrate and the new coating. In a few essential details, however, the two crafts differ. If you fail with a tap water, you usually have the advice to throw the wet and cut to a new one. A mattress, on the other hand, is so expensive that you want to be so drastic. In addition, floor plastic is a rather heavy material that can be difficult to shape in the corner and prick while a wallpaper is more compliant and usually easily infects. Work calmly and methodically and with thought before cutting into the plastic mat!

When you decide to freshen up the floor with a plastic mat, it is important to carefully review the old floor coverings. First, decide if you can put the new plastic carpet directly on the old surface or if you need a more extensive preliminary work. A rule of thumb is that hard, already plastic-coated floors are a good basis for a new plastic mat. The preparation is usually limited to pedantically thorough cleaning of the floor surface. Soft or failing substrates, on the other hand, require more extensive preparatory work. Wooden floors must be clad with masonite to reduce movements that may cause the plastic mat to bubble. Without discs, the new carpet quickly gets the marks after the others.

If the plastic mat is to be on concrete flooring, the floor must first be sanded and sanded. When the surface is even and fine, the substrate must be moisture insulated to reduce the risk of mold underneath the plastic mat. Even an old plastic floor may require preliminary work. You have to glue loose loose tabs, fix any holes with the recess of new bite pieces and otherwise make sure all bumps disappear. If you add and glue a new plastic mat on top of the old, the surface of the backing must be stretched with sandpaper so that the glue is firmly attached.

When the finish is done and the substrate is completely dry you can begin to put the plastic mat. Because it's a powerful material to work with, it's important to have good tools. The most important thing is a really sharp knife knife.

Measure right before purchasing a plastic mat

There are several factors to consider when calculating material usage. First of all, it is of course the floor surface, but if the room has many corners and prongs it will be a lot of game and therefore you may need to buy a few square meters extra. If the carpet you choose requires pattern fitting, you must add extra for this because the walls have to be displaced in order for the pattern to match. Also, do not forget to add capital to the calculation. In order to be really sure how many square meters of plastic mat you should buy, you should measure the size of the room and make a measurement sketch with all angles and prongs spotted. Take the sketch to the store to help you check that your calculations are correct.

Turn the wings

If you have bought a plastic mat that should be wet, you should of course do it even if it seems a little bit bulky. If you do not turn the waves you get too big color changes at the joints, then the waves will clearly be distinguished from one another, which you should definitely avoid. The result will not be the whole and even floor surface that you definitely would have imagined: A patterned plastic mat may need to be used. Then it's not just for the sake of color changes, but also for perfect pattern matching.

Invisible joints

Before you buy the plastic carpet, it's good if you decide where the joints are to be placed. This can also have a certain impact on how much plastic mat you need. A rule of thumb is that they should be perpendicular to the wall that has the most windows. In this way the joints are seen at least. In a long-painted room, it may sometimes be more natural to follow the joint along the length of the room. Because a jointed joint means a slight weakening in the floor area, you should avoid making them where the floor is most worn. Sensitive places are in doorways, in front of the stove and in the passage between two rooms.


1. Choose the type of plastic mat that suits you.
2. Determine how the plastic mat will lie.
3. Calculate how much plastic mat you need to buy.
4. Determine if the plastic mat is to be glued or loose.
5. Make room for the furniture in another room.
6. Get the tools.


1. Do the preliminary work.
2. Cut to the waves.
3. Add the wings.
4. Match outer corners and prongs.
5. Pattern pass and splice.
6. Match the inner corner.
7. Finish the plastic mat.
8. Glue or lay the plastic mat loosely.


Crochet knife (1) Knife knife knife (2) Wrapping knife (3) Hammers (4) Slipblock (5) Sickel (5) Sickel 6) Stainless steel (7) Tumstock (8) Stainless steel (9) Pencil wrench (10) Scissors (11) Wrappers wrapped in cloth (12) Matches (13) Steel packing (14)

Plastic mat, Masonite, Grapefruit , Slippers, Glues, Waterproof Filler, Moisture Insulation, Removal, Double-sided tape, Tubes, Triangular strip, Floor adhesive, Fog liquid. In addition, you may need to rent the floor trimmer and floor grinder.
Remove the old plastic mat

1. Cut the old glued plastic mat into 3-4 dm wide strips. Then it is much easier to get rid of the mat from the underfloor.

2. Remove the mattress strips by hand. Work as smoothly as possible to get the most of your carpet.

3. Scrape away all dirt and glue residues. If the floor surface is not so large you can use a wide steel stack and scrape the floor by hand.

Plastic flooring on wood flooring

1. Knock down all the stinging nails in the floor. This is especially important if you are going to use a grinder.

2. Release all the unevennesses in the floor. Smaller areas can be processed by hand. Use slip paper and grinding brush.

3. If the floor area is large or very uneven, you will earn a lot of time renting a floor grinder.

4. If the wooden floor is difficult to get even, you can put a gray lump of paper under the masonry.

5. Now cover the floor with 6.4 mm masonite discs. The masonite removes the movement of the wood and makes the mat smooth.

6. If you use chipboard masonite you should put the discs together tightly. Glue the joints together with suitable glue.

7. As a rule, you can even the glued joints with a sickle.


To avoid mold formation under the carpet, make sure that the concrete floor is completely dry before starting the carpet. Increase the heat in the room, and please add an extra heat fan to wipe the floor faster.

Concrete flooring

1. Use waterproof filler and repel all uneven and cracking in the floor.

2. Slip the dry fluffed surfaces with a not too rough slipper until all elevations are completely gone.

3. Concrete floors always contain moisture. To avoid mold during the carpet coating, you need to waterproof.

Plastic mat

1. Use floor remover and wash all floor polish. This is important if the carpet is to be loose.

2. If the new carpet is glued to the old, the surface layer of the latter must be roughened with coarse release paper.


For best final results, remove the floorboards. Use a jig iron and gently tear off the feed.

Carefully sweep or vacuum the dry floor surface carefully. There must be no dirt or gravel left.

Cut the water

1. Measure the entire length of the room. Roll out the plastic mat with the backside up. Calculate approx. 5 cm cuticle at each end.

2. Cut the wings with a hook knife. Cut towards you. For pattern matching or wet use, calculate extra capability.

3. Roll the waves one by one. Then roll out the first wet again with the right side up.

4. If the wall is completely straight you can put the first wet edge edge to the wall. When discharging the carpet, the carpet needs extra mm in motion space adjacent to the wall.

5. If the wall bends, put the plastic mat a few centimeters up on the wall. Have the carpet pattern with straight lines in place the straight line edge to edge with the wall.

6. Fold the short ends of the wet and fasten them with double-sided tape. Carefully stretch the mat and make sure it is completely flat against the surface.

7. Now it's time to roll out the second wet. The edges should overlap with about 1 cm. Do not forget to turn wet if the carpet is to be wet.

8. When pattern matching, be careful. Make small cuts in a couple of places at the edge of the second bark, so you'll see the pattern right.

9. Cut through both the waves. If the carpet has a marking mark, you should cut it in. Use a straight blade blades knife and support a steel stem.

10. Remove the remaining strips and put together the joints. Check the pattern fitting and make sure the joints are close together.

11. Carefully fold the matt ends and fix the plastic mat with double-sided tape. If you are loading a matte mat, be careful not to let the wet slip.


Put away a few sturdy pieces of the new carpet. These can be used to get a brand or jacket in the carpet.

Make a damaged plastic mat like this:

Cut out a piece of food that is slightly larger than the damage in the carpet. Use a sharp knife and cut through both patch and carpet. Remove the socket, glue the flap and attach. Warning

Keep in mind that floor adhesives and joint fluids may contain hazardous to breathe. Read the instructions on the packaging and follow the prescribed advice on ventilation. Wipe with a damp cloth immediately away glue that may look up between the joints. Into glue residue you can remove with special glue.

Prang and outer corner

1. When pushed, fold back the carpet slightly more than the depth of the pier. Place the wad straight with about 5 cm cap. Mark the hood at the inner wall of the prank or doorway.

2. Cut along the pencil marks to get the size of the pencil including the crown. Cut at 45 ┬░ angle at the outer corner. Cut to the floor without damaging the new plastic mat.

3. If you have done right, you can pull the plastic mat in the prong and put it in place. Make sure the wet trough is absolutely straight and smooth to the underfloor.

4. Now you can cut at the outer corner. Use the matte knife with straight blade and make sure that the mat closes at the edges. Finish next to the walls.

Worth knowing

You can choose to glue the new plastic mat or place it loose on top of the old floor cover. If you choose to lay the carpet loose, the substrate must be a hard plastic floor. A welded plastic mat should not be anchored in the subfloor by more than one joint. The carpet "sucks" firmly in the subfloor and the carpet is too fixed increases the risk of bubbling. You should never wipe a plastic mat over an excessive surface. You do not recommend larger areas than about 20 m2. You must always glue the new coating if the substrate is made of wood, concrete or if you have to remove the old floor covering.

If you are going to loosen the plastic mat, make sure you buy anti-aging tape. Tapes that are not intended for plastic mats can eventually cause discoloration in the carpet. For a really good result, remove all air between the carpet and the underfloor, even when you load the carpet. However, you usually do not have to work as vigorously as you are gluing. It's usually enough to sweep with long brush from the center to the edges.

When placing a subfloor on, for example, a wooden floor, the best choice is a chipboard masonry disc that is directly adapted for the purpose. Brushed masonite should only be glued to the joints and "float" on top of the wooden floor. Another, cheaper option is regular masonite that is nailed to the substrate. But with such a subfloor it is more likely that the plastic mat will bubble.


1. Press the plastic mat against the pipes. Cut with the straight knife a vertical cut in front of the tubes.

2. Cut around the pipes. Then the plastic mat lays well without bubbling. Cover as possible. cuts with tube cuffs.

3. Add an angle between the floor and the wall on both sides of the mat between the tubes.

4. Fold the matt piece again. Cut the capsule from mark to mark. Fold back the plastic mat again.

Cut plastic mat around door lining

1. When loading the plastic mat at door lining and some thresholds, it is important to press the wet hard in place.

2. When you have put the mat firmly in place, make a vertical section at right angles on each side of the frame.

3. Cut the dirt tab with the straight knife knife. Angle the blade toward the feed edge and pull the knife toward you.

4. Now you can cut the rest of the matt edge. Be sure to press the mat firmly against the wall all the time.


When you put a new plastic mat on top of an old one, make sure that the joints do not end up directly on top of each other. After a while there will be ugly elevations and thus visible joints in the new carpet. If you are unsure of the knife, it is better to cut slightly at the angles and corners and cut afterwards, rather than cutting too much at the beginning.

Cut the inner corner

1. In the inner corner it is easiest if you form the plastic mat to a strut. Press the mat in the corner without stabbing it.

2. Feed the mat as far as you can with the scissors. Mark the corner dimensions on the back of the carpet.

3. Cut the plastic mat so that the mark is just left. The mark on the carpet will end up exactly in the corner.


1. Use the back of a scissors and squeeze the plastic mat firmly against the wall so that you get a clear mark.

2. Use the crown knife and cut it straight. Cut a piece at a time and make sure the plastic mat closes tightly against the wall.

Paste the plastic mat

1. Carefully fold back the wet next to a wall to half. Mark with the pen along the edge of the second wet.

2. Fold back the other waves in the same way that half the floor area is exposed. Also remove the fixation tape.

3. Use a steel patch and iron out with adhesive on the entire exposed surface.

4. Replace the wet over the glued surface. Make sure the waves end up exactly with the marked markings.

5. Squeeze the carpet with a flap wrapped in a cloth. Work out to the edges. Glue the rest of the plastic mat.


The croquette blade knife is an important tool when laying a plastic mat. The crooked blade makes the knife not easily follow, for example, a groove in the substrate and, as such, goes its own ways. When using the hook knife, the risk is not so great that you accidentally cut into an underlying bite. Sample a piece of cake before starting to cut a dad. Then you will soon feel how the blade should be angled to cut nicely.

If the new carpet is glued to the old, the surface layer of the latter must be roughened with a rough release paper. With slotted rings you can hide any misalignment around pipes. R├Ârmanschetter can be bought at most grocery stores. If the adhesive residue is hard or it is a larger surface you should clean, it may be a good idea to rent a floor strip. With this you clean 15-20 m2 in a couple of hours.

Tape the carpet

1. Mark the wet position with the pen. Then attach double-sided tape over the mark.

2. Remove the protective paper and lay back the wet so that the splice is exactly on the mark.


1. In order for the plastic mat to become "full" and dense, insert it. Press down the pipe between the tight joints.

2. Nail back the lists. If the plastic mat is worn, do not clamp it with the lists.


Laying a plastic mat can be both heavy and difficult and requires strength in both arms and nips. If you have the opportunity, it's good if you are two people who help. Then the work goes much smoother and is more fun.

When you need to flip a crack or the like more than once, you have to count on the drying time between the spills. The flap must be completely dry before applying a new layer of fluff. When you need to flip a crack or hide. More than once, you have to count on the drying time between the flakes.

If you have removed the floor tiles, it will be much faster to reattach them if you have numbered the lists before. If you have been freezing with the knife, you can possibly hide the edge of the plastic mat with a triangular strip. However, keep in mind that a welded plastic mat can not be clamped with only the lists. A match between the list and the floor before nailing gives a good gap.

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