In this article you will find basic information and make it yourself instructions with explanatory photographs on how to seal around windows with foam foam.
In all times and in all climates, homeowners have hunted cracks, cracks and other types of unevenness. If you do not get rid of drains and heat leakage, do it to keep moisture and small cracks at the proper distance. This applies in principle to all residential buildings, either older or later. Glips and other flaws. occurs not least when the building is moving with different weather changes and should be sealed or reviewed in a different way. Many such works are done fairly easily with fast-moving so-called foam foam. Lime and cement used for a very long time the completely dominant joint and sealant material in construction work. It's excellent than today between hard and rigid materials, but has almost completely spelled out its role, including moving material.
The change has gone fast. It started seriously around 1960 when the construction sector was revolutionized in many ways. Among other things, one began to seriously isolate with plastic and rubber material. Nowadays, it can be said that the total density of a building is often based on just different types of mainly plastic materials. All plumbing and electrical installation products are unrecognized.
Especially at the beginning of this "plastic age", many materials were debated from such childhood diseases. For example, one used to use some types that did not correspond to the life of the building in general. The biggest top were substandard stabilizers that did not cope with all the stresses. This was especially true of meadows and windbreakers and such materials as both solar and sunlight more or less quickly broke down.
Several of the products were also built into the body and thus became difficult, not to say impossible to replace. The vague resistance caused, and still causes, a lot of problems. However, many of these problems, especially seals of different kinds, can be eliminated, or in any event, pushed in front of them by means of joint masses.
There is a plethora of such materials on the market. Acrylic, rubber bitumen, polyurethane and silicone are some examples. For the ovane, joint foam is a single-component polyurethane product, the most effective and easiest to use. The foam is sold in handy pressure vessels. It attaches to virtually any clean material and seals and insulates at once. Once the foam foam has hardened, the surface can be cut clean with a knife or other suitable tool. It is possible to paint directly on the cured, solidified foam.
The product is most useful in joints between 7 and 35 mm. The foam expands very quickly, by spraying itself often in a 50 percent volume increase and during curing in an equal extent. However, there are also foam types where, for example, half a liter of liquid liquid gives 2530 liters of complete foam.
The so-called movable joints around windows and exterior doors are subjected to greater strain than most others and should therefore be checked and possibly sealed regularly. Inside, the joint is usually more stable and usually does not need to be reviewed. However, keep in mind that an internal frame joint must be completely air and moisture tight while the outside should be diffusion open. It is only for this as joint foam is suitable sealing material.
Foam foam is harmful if handled inadvertently. Always wear protective gloves and goggles in case of poor ventilation, including respiratory protection with gas and dust filters. In case of splashing in the eyes, rinse plenty of water and seek medical advice immediately, skin contact, wash with soap and water. Open fire must definitely not occur.
If air is allowed to penetrate the container, the foam will cure in the valve!
Preferably do not use the kofot to loosen the lining on the window, as the risk is great for breaking the lining.
In case of additional insulation inside walls with cavities or other channels where insulation materials can be laid, the temperature conditions change in the wall so that the outer parts become cooler. In some cases, such additional insulation may cause moisture problems. Foam foam works best at room temperature even if it fades down to + 5 ° C. After hardening, it is temperature resistant from 40 ° C to + 130 ° C.
Kofot (1) Hoist (2) Hammers (3) Murslev (10) Protective gloves (11) Protective mask (12) Small brush (13) Grinding pin (14) Straight iron (15) <> Iron wrench
Foam foam, lacquer, slip paper, acetone.
1. Loosen the lining if this is necessary to allow you to get sealed. Carefully work with stems and hammers. Make sure you do not damage the lining.
2. Remove all loose use and other material residues between wall and windows. Use a murslev or something like that. Scratch carefully.
3. If you do not get properly, a discarded screwdriver may be helpful. It is important that the joint gets clean from mortar.
4. In this mode, it may be wise to check that the bin is seated straight with a water pass. If necessary, adjust the window frame.
5. Ev. Stains of oil or other fats should be washed clean with acetone on a lint pad. Use acetone and do not rub too long.
6. Damm to the end of the fog jump using a fine-haired dust brush. Damm makes the foam adhere to the seal.
7. Stake the window by first measuring the carmin dimensions. Sow to a board with 2 mm oversize. Then tap the board in place between the window frames.
1. Never spray with spray gloves and goggles. Never work in open fire and do not smoke at all when working with this material.
2. Then shake the "bottle" vigorously. Also loosen the plastic tube that is located on the protective cap. Then screw the plastic pipe to the threaded nozzle of the container.
3. First make a spray test. Hall the container upside down. Straighten the plastic tube into a tight bag. Slowly push the trigger to you.
4. When you are ready to start the seal yourself, insert the plastic pipe into the joint to seal and gently press the trigger on the container.
5. Then sprinkle with the hand in the joint. Work from top to bottom all the time. The container should always be held up and down.
6. Join at a fairly fast pace. Otherwise, there is a risk that the plastic pipe and the valve will be clogged to the foam which is constantly pushing.
7. The foam is pressed into the joint, which after expansion at the joining of windows and doors should be 50-80 mm deep. Measure if possible with a tumble.
8. Do not spray it too quickly. During the subsequent rapid cure, the foam swells further. It will be much more than you might think.
9. If you need a break at work, it is very important that you place the container upright in contrast to the work position.
10. Before you can return to work again, you must shake the container again so that the contents are mixed properly. Shake a few times.
When you're going to cut off the overflow created during expansion, it's also good to use an arc wrap. The blade is soft and flexible and sharp in the foam foam. It is important that you stow the window before starting to seal with foam foam. The board that is going to stand the window should be about 2 mm longer than the carminaire size. The board should tension properly in the frame. If you do not stumble, the risk of the bows is bursting during expansion.
first Allow the foam to dry thoroughly. Then you can start cutting off the overflow. Use a sharp morak knife or a bark wrap to cut.
2. Cut all the time in line with the frame. Do you work with a knife so hold on with both hands. Make sure you do not shave the frame.
3. Also, be sure to put the joints in particular if you do not plan to cover it. Release with slip paper and possibly slip block.
4. The foam foam is not completely resistant to the sun's ultraviolet radiation. A good protection is to paint the foam in a suitable color.
5. If you can cover the fitting with the window or door lining is of course this also an effective protection. Nail the lists with a hammer.