It is not uncommon for one or more rooms in a residential floor plan to contain more than one doorway. Each additional "hole" in the wall means that you lose the wall surface, and on the other hand, it is harder to give the room a converted character. It's relatively easy to refill the door hole - whether it's in a plasterboard or a walled, walled inner wall. Should you re-bar a doorway of normal width, you only need to remove the threshold and frames, place a nail line at the floor and cover the hole with plasterboard. In older houses it is common with walled interior walls with a plastered surface. Should you clog a doorway in such a wall, you do not have to mura it again. Instead, you use cellular plastic and chicken netting - so-called reverberation grids - to fill.
You finish work on the surface until the new wall surface is level with the rest of the wall. Just keep in mind that you should have 1.5-2 centimeters put on each wall surface to make it look nice and durable. In some old-age houses, the thresholds are considerably wider than the wall is thick.
When you remove such a threshold, you usually have to lay the floor on that surface. To avoid laying the floor in the entire room, try to get a spare piece of the plastic or rug that you have. If the room is wooden or parquet flooring, it is often not so difficult to get some extra flooring. If the wooden floor darkens and the new piece "lights up" again, try to darken it by laying it in sunlight for some time.
Carefully check the floor and wall surfaces before planning a "door closure". You may need to wallpaper or paint the entire room to get it really nicely. Then plan your work so that you have time to complete it altogether, when it's still messy and messy. The thickness of the controls and plasterboard is controlled by the dimensions of the wall.
In the case of the walled wall it is important to make sure that the rule and the cellular plastic are not thicker than you have space to put on at least 1.5 centimeter pit - without the wall bending out. Also make sure you have material at home if you have to make a flooring.
Make sure you have plenty of protective plastic at home that you can cover over furniture and the like before putting started working. Many people think it's uncomfortable to handle stone and glass wool with only their hands, then use protective gloves.
Hammers (1) Brackets (9)>
Rails, Nails, Plasterboard, or Reverting Grids, Cellular Plastic, Beads.
Common room walls are usually not isolated. If you want to isolate, you can choose between essentially three different materials; stone wool, glass wool or plastic wrap. Wax of stone or glass is the most common wall insulation.
Avoid splitting cellular plastic plates with knife as the material is easily worn and crumbled. Instead, use a fine-looking saw to share cell-plastic plates.
1.Remove threshold / door lining. Use hammarklon and break the frame. Protect the wall with a piece of wood.
2. In older homes, feed and threshold can be difficult to loosen. In that case, it is easier to use a brass iron.
1. Measure how long the floor rule should be and mark with a pencil. Use the joke and see the rule.
2.Speak the floor rule. Make sure it is exactly in the selection. To keep the rule still, you should nail at 10 cm intervals.
3.If the doorway is wide, you also set a rule of law. Then check the water properly properly that the rule is in bulk.
4. Then take the hammer and slanting spikes into the transverse rows. Spike on a regular basis to get as good a result as possible.
1. Measure the size of the plasterboard. Draw the format of the disc and cut through the surface with a sharp knife. Use a steel stem as support.
2.Add the plasterboard to a table with the zipper against the edge. Break carefully so that you do not break the edges or end up outside the zipper.
3. Now turn on the disc and cut through the folder on the back. Hold the split disc with a steady hand at 90o angle and divide the knife.
4.Pack the front and back of the door opening with the cut gypsum boards. Make sure they fit exactly.
When the discs are in place, the entire wall should be painted or wallpapered. First, you need to flip all the nails and nuts carefully. Grind the fluffy surfaces and then glue glass fiber strips over the joints and wide-flap. When the flap is dry, grind a fine slip until the surface is completely even. Only after that you can paint or wallpaper the entire wall.
1.Make up and cut to the Reverting Network in the doorway size. Keep in mind that you must have sufficient fasteners.
2.Fest the net on one side of the wall with labels or nails that you bend over the web.
3. Make sure you extend the network properly. In order not to be bothered by protruding nails, carefully gently push the nail.
4. Measure the size of the plastic sheet and mark the mat with a pen. Divide the plastic with a fine sand saw.
5.Place the cellular plastic in the doorway against the reverberation network. Make sure the plastic fits into the hole. No slips should be present.
6.Get a well-cut piece of net over the door opening's other side. Stretch the net carefully and fasten with labels or nails.
Because splashing of a plaster, put protective plastic on the floor and cover the objects you can not move away from. Put on putty on the web-coated surface several times. When you are almost level with the other wall, fasten a fiberglass strip in the joint between the wall and the opening. This reduces the risk that the punch will then crack and clearly mark the renovation.
When the punch is at an even height with the wall, smooth with a straight stick - a straight line - with zick zack movements. Work from scratch downwards. When the woodwork has started to harden, polish the surface with a tearboard. Work in circular movements over the surface until it is even. Once the well has dried properly - it can take several days - you can paint the entire wall.