It may seem drastic to change facade material on its house. However, in some situations, a phase change may be both desirable and necessary. When replacing facade material, it is most common to replace the wood paneling or an old concrete facade against bricks, thus providing a surface that requires less maintenance. A work of this kind is often quite extensive and also requires some habits. However, if you prepare carefully and work calmly and methodically, a home-stylist without a masonry experience can also give his house a new tile costume.
For further reflection, you understand that there may be many reasons for giving your house a new face, say a new facade. Maintenance may be neglected, roofing may have been wet, resulting in cracks and other façade damage. Railing and dusting may require time consuming and costly care. Fragmented asbestos cement slabs can be misguided.
Facade changes are of course most common in houses of a little older date. Oftentimes, these are built of such solid stomach that age has not affected the load power and excitement. Apart from the façade deficiencies, the house may be worth saving.
Another common reason for changing facade materials is a comprehensive internal renovation. If you also want to change the outer layer, you do not only extend the overall life of the house. It can also be economically advantageous to coordinate work, purchase of materials and possibly machine rentals.
In addition, when changing facade layers, you can also take care of extra insulation outside. Such insulation is usually easier and less extensive than if it is done from within. Additionally, do not cut the new insulation layer from the outside on the precious floor surface. In case of an extension, the character of the house can be changed so that a facade change is justified for that reason only. Almost without exception, you replace wood façades or less common brick materials.
This does not mean, however, that you should indiscriminate and unilaterally exclude other possibilities. Nowadays, there are, for example, facade discs of varnished sheets, which in many cases can be both cheaper and easier. Generally, the building board also wants to choose facade materials. This applies in particular to so-called group buildings. Before you decide on materials and practically, you get started with the remodeling work, please contact the building board in your municipality.
Bucket or mortar bowl (9) Knife (10) Water Pass (11 Tumstock (12) Pen (13) Rotary Brush (14) Mask (4) Murslev (5) Fog Trimmer (6) Masonry Hammers Workshop gloves (15) Angle hooks (16) Masonry nuts (17) Screwdrivers
Facade tile, Masonry, Insulation boards, Works of wood, Support for support posts and profiles, Angle iron, Fasteners, Steel nail and nail studs, Anchoring nails or other fasteners. > Worth knowing
Normally it works Approximately 4 liters of water to a 25-kilowatt dryer. The mixture gives about 16 liters of water. Mix water and dry alternately with stirring. The cement hardens by the cements in the mixture absorbing water. Therefore, mortar does not dry too quickly. Normally, the wall's own moisture is sufficient, but in summertime you may need to water the mill. Take care with a hose with a nozzle or a lime brush.
A faded façade often causes minor damage to the surface by water penetrating the pit and causing frostbite during the winter. Injury of this kind should be made as soon as possible. If they get wide, the risk is great that you have to brush the entire house. West and South Phases are almost always the most vulnerable and, therefore, show off at the earliest if something is going on.
2. Then mark the lower level of the facade stones with a horizontal line. Use water passes.
3.Bore hole and plug for angle angles. Use drill bit and drill steel with the correct dimension.
4.Check carefully that the angles come into contact - before tightening them. They should be of stainless steel, acid-proof steel.
5.Prove profiles to the wall string. Two pronged support posts are required for each profile.
6.Set the posts approximately 0.5m from the wall and align with the outer edge of the tile.
7.Low the profiles very carefully in both directions and then lock them in fixed position with slanting strings.
8.When the profiles are in place, you notice each brick change with a pencil = the height of the stone plus the joint of use.
9.Then reinforce the pencil markings by firmly attaching nails to each of the markings.
10. Between the lower nails you will then span a masonry string that shows the first brick change level.
11. Make sure that the cord is properly stretched. Repeat the procedure on the other walls to be wrapped.
2.Do always wear a corner at the corner and apply abundant use on the angle with the help of mursleven.
3.Press the stone in place and make sure
4.It is also important that you leave room for insulation and secure an air gap behind the façade.
5.Forture with the next cornerstone.
6. When the stone is in place, scrape away excessive use and control the level relative to the wall string.
7.Fill the same principle throughout the line with brick. Check each stone's level against the stretched line.
8.When you have completed the first shift and are completely satisfied, move the wall string to the next peak height. Tighten the cord.
9.Read also at the following shift from a corner.
10.When you have to cut a brick, for example at a corner, first add a whole cornerstone.
11.Cleach the brick with a wall hammers. Tap the stone with light stroke until it is broken.
12.Eventually, you must tamper the cracking surface before placing the "pass piece" in place. Do not forget about the joinery.
13.When you have painted a few shifts, it's time to smooth the joints with a joiner.
14.You may need to fill out any joints with use. The easiest way is to use the murs life with the fog press.
Insulation and final phase
2.Remove the insulation panels into the gap immediately behind the bricks.
3.The fastener must be adjusted to the substrate.
4. Before you start the fourth shift, you should also nail anchorage every third brick.
5. Then you continue to safeguard the wall in the same way as before but only up to and with the sixth shift.
6. Then it's time to pick up the anchoring nails, which turn into every third shift.
7.Have careful you're working, dirt breaks off residual residues that you remove with a dry root brush.