Do you want to paint a tile floor? Here you will find tips on wall painting a brick facade with self-explanations and explanatory photographs.

Tegelfasad - Mura en tegelfasad tips and instructions

Tegelfasad - Mura en tegelfasad tips and instructions


It may seem drastic to change facade material on its house. However, in some situations, a phase change may be both desirable and necessary. When replacing facade material, it is most common to replace the wood paneling or an old concrete facade against bricks, thus providing a surface that requires less maintenance. A work of this kind is often quite extensive and also requires some habits. However, if you prepare carefully and work calmly and methodically, a home-stylist without a masonry experience can also give his house a new tile costume.

For further reflection, you understand that there may be many reasons for giving your house a new face, say a new facade. Maintenance may be neglected, roofing may have been wet, resulting in cracks and other façade damage. Railing and dusting may require time consuming and costly care. Fragmented asbestos cement slabs can be misguided.

Facade changes are of course most common in houses of a little older date. Oftentimes, these are built of such solid stomach that age has not affected the load power and excitement. Apart from the façade deficiencies, the house may be worth saving.

Another common reason for changing facade materials is a comprehensive internal renovation. If you also want to change the outer layer, you do not only extend the overall life of the house. It can also be economically advantageous to coordinate work, purchase of materials and possibly machine rentals.

In addition, when changing facade layers, you can also take care of extra insulation outside. Such insulation is usually easier and less extensive than if it is done from within. Additionally, do not cut the new insulation layer from the outside on the precious floor surface. In case of an extension, the character of the house can be changed so that a facade change is justified for that reason only. Almost without exception, you replace wood façades or less common brick materials.

This does not mean, however, that you should indiscriminate and unilaterally exclude other possibilities. Nowadays, there are, for example, facade discs of varnished sheets, which in many cases can be both cheaper and easier. Generally, the building board also wants to choose facade materials. This applies in particular to so-called group buildings. Before you decide on materials and practically, you get started with the remodeling work, please contact the building board in your municipality.

This is what you need when brushing a tile

Tools:
Bucket or mortar bowl (9) Knife (10) Water Pass (11 Tumstock (12) Pen (13) Rotary Brush (14) Mask (4) Murslev (5) Fog Trimmer (6) Masonry Hammers Workshop gloves (15) Angle hooks (16) Masonry nuts (17) Screwdrivers

Materials:
Facade tile, Masonry, Insulation boards, Works of wood, Support for support posts and profiles, Angle iron, Fasteners, Steel nail and nail studs, Anchoring nails or other fasteners. > Worth knowing

Dry mix is ​​mixed with plain water to a smooth texture. It takes about ten minutes to mix the mill, while adjusting the consistency with water or dryness. However, water should not be added when the stool has started to stiffen.

Normally it works Approximately 4 liters of water to a 25-kilowatt dryer. The mixture gives about 16 liters of water. Mix water and dry alternately with stirring. The cement hardens by the cements in the mixture absorbing water. Therefore, mortar does not dry too quickly. Normally, the wall's own moisture is sufficient, but in summertime you may need to water the mill. Take care with a hose with a nozzle or a lime brush.

Tips

The price for different facade materials varies a lot - even within the different groups. If you are starting from sheet metal panels that are the cheapest, wood panels are about 20 percent more expensive, while thickeners and a walled facade cost about 60 and 80 percent more. In conjunction with a phase change, there is often reason to consider replacing windows, for example, to glass windows.

Warning!

The cost of changing facade cladding is so great that you should primarily maintain the existing façade. Therefore, check regularly the wear and tear caused by wind and wind and try to do something about it. This means, for example, that wooden paneling houses must be regularly updated. Panel parts attacked by rotting should almost be replaced without exception.

A faded façade often causes minor damage to the surface by water penetrating the pit and causing frostbite during the winter. Injury of this kind should be made as soon as possible. If they get wide, the risk is great that you have to brush the entire house. West and South Phases are almost always the most vulnerable and, therefore, show off at the earliest if something is going on.

Preparations

1.Do rip the old facade material. If it's like wood, you can handle it using a kofot.


2. Then mark the lower level of the facade stones with a horizontal line. Use water passes.


3.Bore hole and plug for angle angles. Use drill bit and drill steel with the correct dimension.


4.Check carefully that the angles come into contact - before tightening them. They should be of stainless steel, acid-proof steel.


5.Prove profiles to the wall string. Two pronged support posts are required for each profile.


6.Set the posts approximately 0.5m from the wall and align with the outer edge of the tile.


7.Low the profiles very carefully in both directions and then lock them in fixed position with slanting strings.


8.When the profiles are in place, you notice each brick change with a pencil = the height of the stone plus the joint of use.


9.Then reinforce the pencil markings by firmly attaching nails to each of the markings.


10. Between the lower nails you will then span a masonry string that shows the first brick change level.


11. Make sure that the cord is properly stretched. Repeat the procedure on the other walls to be wrapped.


Tip!

It is important that you get a clear mark for the lower brick line and then follow it. When marking shorter facades, you usually get a long water pass, but at longer you may need a balancing instrument. Consult your building retailer about the type of bolt and plug that best suits your particular façade.

Murning

1.Contain use according to the instructions of the package.


2.Do always wear a corner at the corner and apply abundant use on the angle with the help of mursleven.


3.Press the stone in place and make sure


4.It is also important that you leave room for insulation and secure an air gap behind the façade.


5.Forture with the next cornerstone.


6. When the stone is in place, scrape away excessive use and control the level relative to the wall string.


7.Fill the same principle throughout the line with brick. Check each stone's level against the stretched line.


8.When you have completed the first shift and are completely satisfied, move the wall string to the next peak height. Tighten the cord.


9.Read also at the following shift from a corner.


10.When you have to cut a brick, for example at a corner, first add a whole cornerstone.


11.Cleach the brick with a wall hammers. Tap the stone with light stroke until it is broken.


12.Eventually, you must tamper the cracking surface before placing the "pass piece" in place. Do not forget about the joinery.


13.When you have painted a few shifts, it's time to smooth the joints with a joiner.


14.You may need to fill out any joints with use. The easiest way is to use the murs life with the fog press.


Insulation and final phase

1.Secure three-shift air gap with heath. Spike from angle angles to full height - c-spacing 60 cm.


2.Remove the insulation panels into the gap immediately behind the bricks.


3.The fastener must be adjusted to the substrate.


4. Before you start the fourth shift, you should also nail anchorage every third brick.


5. Then you continue to safeguard the wall in the same way as before but only up to and with the sixth shift.


6. Then it's time to pick up the anchoring nails, which turn into every third shift.


7.Have careful you're working, dirt breaks off residual residues that you remove with a dry root brush.


Worth knowing

Note that the drying time of the mill at the bottom shift is almost always longer than for the shifts that follow. This is because the rocks are in use, which in turn rests on the angular threads, which do not absorb any moisture. There is therefore reason to be a bit extra careful so that these rocks are not disturbed when the other shift is added.

Warning!

To get hard-smudged tiles clean you may need to acidify, but never make an acid without first Contact a specialist. You usually remove residual residues by dry brushing with a powerful root brush.

Important!

New material regulations, rules, recommendations and working methods are constantly coming to an end. Therefore, always check the current rules with the current professional organization / professional before starting.



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