There is something contradictory with Nordic turning blades or turning blades that you usually say. Few wood types are so well suited for wood turning as those with natural plants on our latitudes. But at the same time most of them are difficult to get hold of. The explanation is that the subject quality you rarely search is available in the farmhouse. Some construction market can sometimes have a small stock, but the most important reactors can be found among demolition plants and remains from parks and gardens.
You must be so skilled at the wood yard and have the best possible tools for turning wood, but without good turning-offs to process, the turning result is neither particularly artificial nor of practical quality. The difficulty finding suitable work means that many responders spend a lot of time and great care to "chase" the right turbines. It should be quite a prerequisite for the woodwork to match wood.
It should be heavy and fairly hard, yet easy to handle. It would rather be kernel-edged than surface-edged, have a beautiful lust and preferably surprisingly lively structure. In addition, the tree should be folded at the right time of year, that is, in winter when it rests and has dried in such a way, and for so long that it does not crack at the ends. To seem to be what you usually call a farmyard, it has to be airy and for a long time.
Of course, everyone is free to get wood in both natural woodland and parks and gardens. However, there is an absolute prerequisite: you must have permission from the landowner to get rid of the work and you must also agree on the payment for it. It is not rarely happens that you get rid of the work, provided all games from, for example, a concentrated thinning are carried away. It may seem generous, but expect transport costs to be quite high.
As a rule, you can not use and react in the work until it has been split and looked into appropriate dimensions. Sometimes it may be possible to do this yourself with a chainsaw or with wedges, but most of the work must be left to a loggery or sawmill that has a higher capacity circle or band saw.
However, this does not mean that everyone Turbines must be removed from the ground. Rather, there is much to be found in clerical wood from, for example, rays in fruit trees. By the way, almost all fruit trees, with their density and often vibrant structure and color, provide good lacerants. Provided that the work can be shared - relatively dry branches and branches can be used.
Home gardens can therefore be rich in storage. Two other common "bargaining sites" are the restraint warehouses and demolition houses of the interior carpentry. In the latter, however, the goodies are often hidden from color and mortar residues.
If you look for turning lathe, it's a good rule to never burn or throw a piece of wood until you realize there is nothing like that can be used in the lathe.
The following are examples of wood that can give more or less suitable turning materials:
Red or brownish wood, good for turning.
Yellow-white surface-edged and reddish-brown core, solid and well-written, but too coarse fibers for finer lathes.
Light gray-gray reddish surface, light brown, well-written core. Hard, sleek and elastic, yet good turning.
Slight and easy-worked, but in the softest team for turning.
Yellow-tan-brown wood, quite hard, long-fitting and tight, but very good for turning. Beginning to root can give marbled structure. No difference between surface and core.
Heavy and hard work, but easy to handle. Yellow or reddish with dot-like marrow beams. Both normal book and red book provide good turning issues, while avenebooks are inferior.
It is the gray-brown core that is valuable, but just for turning is oak in the hardest and roughest team. The light yellow surface is useless.
Yellow-white surface-edged brownish core. Both hard and sift with clear annual rings.
Light surface, slightly brownish core, often vividly cartoon. The core is best, the surface is slightly too rough to give beautiful surfaces.
Lightweight and elastic furulaceous wood without core. Too lightweight for finer turning.
Yellow wood with dark brown, very beautiful core. Excellent for turning.
NB! Gold rain is toxic, not fatal to use but golden rain should be used with great care. Be sure to have very good ventilation and use dust filters for both nose and mouth in particular grinding. It is especially the fine dust damper that is poisonous.
Yellow-white surface with yellow-brown core. Easy-machined and useful turntable.
Yellow-white work without core, sometimes flammable pattern. Provides low-grade lubricants.
Light yellow-white wood with green and reddish shifts. Good turntable.
Soft, creamy wood. In the softest team for turning.
Yellow or reddish surface, brown core. Pretty firm and elastic, but uneven due to hard twigs and resins.
Light yellow-white work with a draw to brown. Hard, yet good turntable.
African mahogany is brown and often red-tailed, Australian mahogany, which is really an eucalyptus species - is white.
Brown, heavy and hard wood, excellent for turning.
Dense, creamy or reddish surface with brownish core. Excellent turntable.
Light yellow white surface with brown red-violet core. Provides good lubricants - if you succeed in drying.
Yellowish lacquered, lively cartoon and yet not too hard. Provides good turning materials.
Warm brungul wood with darker features characterizes bangkok roof. African teak is slightly lighter. Both provide excellent turning materials.
Dense and solid wood with vibrant structure. Species from Europe and Asia are darker than American. Provides precise turning fabrics.
Red-white surface with reddish-brown core. Gives good, heavy and hard turning materials.
Sticking paper over the end tree does not break easily during drying. Wood-like wood must be dried up in a heated room to be a good response.
The ideal blade must be hard, yet easy to handle. Nuclear wood is, for example, better than surface edges, and the clearer the weight of the wood, the more vibrant and more beautiful the products become.